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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, all! as stated, OBD port is inop. manual does not have a fuse marked "lighter", "cigar", etc. I looked at fuse block on engine and only found 'Rear Accessory
Power Outlet'. fuse is good. fuse block in cabin list '#13 | Auxiliary Power front' and '#17 | Auxiliary Power Rear'. #13 fuse is good. #17 has this (see picture). #17 may not be the right fuse for OBD but does anyone know why this has been altered? Autozone and O'Reilly's are flummoxed.

If #17 is the right fuse this alteration may have killed my OBD port?

Does anyone know what fuse is used for the OBD port? Chevy.com chat could not tell me.

I am trying to avoid the dealership :p
 

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im thinking previous owner tapped it for maybe-- radar? forward facing camera?
 

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the the previous owner tapped into that ckt....
I would track that wiring and remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah, that's what the autozone guy said. Not really sure how to "Track" where the wires go, but will look into doing that after work. I was thinking about removing the "attachment" to see if the port worked.....but i do not know where it goes and if it is important or not. Thanks
 

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I am looking at a 2010 shop manual.........the data link connector looks like it goes to fuse 36 which says data link connection in the shop manual and the owners manual.doe the car run and you just cant get the connector to work or does the car not start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am looking at a 2010 shop manual.........the data link connector looks like it goes to fuse 36 which says data link connection in the shop manual and the owners manual.doe the car run and you just cant get the connector to work or does the car not start?
Car is fine. Tried plugging in a Nationwide Smart-ride devise (for discount on insurance) and the port is dead.....that's all.

#36 fuse, DLC, is not blown.
 

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The 2014 Nox Data Link Connector uses two fuses on Pin #16.
Fuse#8 underhood 60 amp and Fuse#36 instrument panel 7.5 amp.

All other 15 pins are vacant, grounds, or GMLAN Serial Data.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The 2014 Nox Data Link Connector uses two fuses on Pin #16.
Fuse#8 underhood 60 amp and Fuse#36 instrument panel 7.5 amp.

All other 15 pins are vacant, grounds, or GMLAN Serial Data.
Great info RedNox.
Fuse #8 60 amp under hood, says Read Defogger - my defogger is working.
Fuse #36 instrument panel, data link, is also good.

I at a loss here...... :(
 

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Are you sure the smart ride device is good?
Port could be good-- but device bad?.




Also- a couple years ago, there was a bulletin on CELs and other issues with Onstar being caused by devices-- like Insurance monitors being left plugged in.
 

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Great info RedNox.
Fuse #8 60 amp under hood, says Read Defogger - my defogger is working.
Fuse #36 instrument panel, data link, is also good.

I at a loss here...... :(
In my Manual the number 7 and 8 fuse were crossed on one page.
Take a close look at the number 7 fuse.

Have you verified that you are getting battery voltage on pin #16 of the Data Link Connector?
Bottom row (narrow part of connector) all the way to the right.
Bottom row is 9 thru 16, left to right.
Check with volt meter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
#7 fuse confirmed ok................

Don't have a volt meter to check pins. Changed insurance companies (saving over 50% and better coverage) so I don't need to use Nationwise's smartride devise afterall.

So for now I will not worry about I guess.

Thanks for trying
 

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#7 fuse confirmed ok................

Don't have a volt meter to check pins. Changed insurance companies (saving over 50% and better coverage) so I don't need to use Nationwise's smartride devise afterall.

So for now I will not worry about I guess.

Thanks for trying



" Gort - Klaatu barada nikto "
 

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You know if it is a certified used vehicle and you have emission testing your car automatically fails. I would take it back to the certified used car dealer and make them fix on their dollar. The OBD II is so important to have functioning that it is required for most vehicles to operate. I would report it to DMV to have them force the dealer to fix it as it also has safety items like ABS, SRS (airbags) and engine codes along with a host of other functions for repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You know if it is a certified used vehicle and you have emission testing your car automatically fails. I would take it back to the certified used car dealer and make them fix on their dollar. The OBD II is so important to have functioning that it is required for most vehicles to operate. I would report it to DMV to have them force the dealer to fix it as it also has safety items like ABS, SRS (airbags) and engine codes along with a host of other functions for repairs.
Did not know that Mikeske. Thanks. I will contact the dealer.
 
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