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Discussion Starter #21
Can someone vet my parts list before I start spending money? I already have a cordless impact and a regular 1/2 socket set and ratchet. I'm basically going to be new piston rings, new exhaust cam, new timing and balance shaft chains, and new exhaust manifold.


Gear Puller

Water Pump gasket kit

Timing chain kit

Balance chain kit

Piston rings

Balance shaft sprocket

Timing cover gasket kit

head gasket

Head bolt kit

Torque wrench inch/lb

Torque wrench ft/lb

creeper/seat

ramps to get front end up so I can get under the front easier

Exhaust cam

Exhaust manifold
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The kit I bought I believe has all the stuff including tensioner and guides. Also the balance shaft chain kit is separate from the timing chain kit.
 

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The kit I bought I believe has all the stuff including tensioner and guides. Also the balance shaft chain kit is separate from the timing chain kit.
I guess it does! I don't see a Tensioner in the ACDelco Timing Chain Kit, either (on RockAuto):


Geez! What is it with all these kits on RockAuto that say "sprockets not included"?

Also - why are those plastic ramps twice the price you normally see (~$45)? Are they longer with a more gradual incline than, say, the Rhino Ramps?
 

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Why are you replacing the exhaust cam? U might want to have feeler gauge to stick in the ring grooves to make sure those are the right size rings I would just replace the pistons at the same time because they are prone to cracking. Do you have a ridge reamer? Your supposed to use it when taking the old pistons out. Also maybe get a manual... when you do put the rods back in make sure the crank is at bottom center on whatever hole your installing it in or its possible to get a piston stuck in the block then the whole thing will have to come apart.
 

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The crank pully bolt , rod bolts and cam retainer bolts are all torque to yield you will need new ones and also the bolts that hold in the camshaft phasers. I would get the kit that has new balance shaft sprockets and they don't come with that sprocket that goes on the crankshaft the chain rides on plastic or nylon that gets pretty nasty and with the new chain being so tight its a good idea to just replace it because it can get down to the metal. The Cloyes kit is easy to install the acdelco one may not have colored chain links depending on what one you get im pretty sure your supposed to actually count the links it could be a pain. You will need a ton of grey rtv for the oil pan and theres no need for in pound and ft lb torque wrench just a digital one should do just fine they do both.

Also no ramps, the passenger side wheel will need to come off and so the ramp would be useless.... I would just jack it up high on that side pull the wheel and put a couple jack stands under it...problably wont need the gear puller either after u get the bolt off for the crank pulley just tap it off with a hammer...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The crank pully bolt , rod bolts and cam retainer bolts are all torque to yield you will need new ones and also the bolts that hold in the camshaft phasers. I would get the kit that has new balance shaft sprockets and they don't come with that sprocket that goes on the crankshaft the chain rides on plastic or nylon that gets pretty nasty and with the new chain being so tight its a good idea to just replace it because it can get down to the metal. The Cloyes kit is easy to install the acdelco one may not have colored chain links depending on what one you get im pretty sure your supposed to actually count the links it could be a pain. You will need a ton of grey rtv for the oil pan and theres no need for in pound and ft lb torque wrench just a digital one should do just fine they do both.

Also no ramps, the passenger side wheel will need to come off and so the ramp would be useless.... I would just jack it up high on that side pull the wheel and put a couple jack stands under it...problably wont need the gear puller either after u get the bolt off for the crank pulley just tap it off with a hammer...
I'm replacing the exhaust cam because the reluctor spun and apparently it's a pressed in part that can't be fixed according to the dealership.

The ramps are for when I need to get to the exhaust manifold bolts. I'm guessing they're facing down which means I'll need to get under the car with a long extension and a cordless impact and I'm not as thin as I used to be. Also when I need to break loose the connecting rod bolts I can toss the tire back on and roll it up on ramps to give myself more room since I'm fat and barrel chested. I did buy a new cam bolt and I'll put an order in for a crank pulley bolt today. I will also need to get a ridge reamer and cylinder hone tool.
 

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I'm replacing the exhaust cam because the reluctor spun and apparently it's a pressed in part that can't be fixed according to the dealership.
When you replace the exhaust cam it is a good idea to replace the exhaust lifters.
Get a small bottle of cam lube to.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
When you replace the exhaust cam it is a good idea to replace the exhaust lifters.
Get a small bottle of cam lube to.
I picked up a bottle of Permatex which I'm hoping should take care of my assembly lube needs. As for the lifters, I'm assuming there are 4 for the exhaust and 4 for the intake, right? After some research I found out it's 16 total, and 8 for exhaust/8 for intake.
 

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Cool, the exhaust manifold bolts are accessible from the top actually, sounds like its going to be a fun project though. The rings have to be put on at a certain angle like top ring at 90 degrees then second at like 45 degrees offset from that then oil ring has to be put on with the little rings in there at a certain angle too.. Depending on what rings they are there is actually a top side and bottom side . if you don't get a manual I can post the specs for you and the rod bolts have their own spec too like so many ft pounds then like 80 degrees or something... also when you take the rods out mark the cylinder and take note of how they all go in like the flat spot toward the front of the car. New rod bearings are nice too. A new intake manifold is a good idea too because they are plastic and hard to clean out. I did not bag and label all my parts but I wish I did. The head gasket sticks out like a razor blade on the passenger side I would tape it off.,, manual says to replace the motor mount careful not to bend that steel line on the high pressure fuel pump too u might want to replace that. Now is a good time to replace the thermostat too when you take the water pump off the whole metal tube going to it has to come off and it has the thermostat inside. Be careful when you set the head down because the fuel rail pressure sensor breaks really easily like I did. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks! I'm hoping it should go pretty straight forward. My biggest complaint is the best 2.4 ecotec teardown video is the clays auto which isn't very good. My buddy is doing his 1.8 Corolla and showed me this which has a lot of good info like putting bolts/nuts back when you can etc. Corolla vid
 

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$30 for a one year subscription to alldatadiy.com will give you the complete vehicle shop manual. It's intense and complete and blows away any Haynes or Chilton book. I have a subscription for every vehicle in my fleet, additional are only $20
 

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I picked up a bottle of Permatex which I'm hoping should take care of my assembly lube needs. As for the lifters, I'm assuming there are 4 for the exhaust and 4 for the intake, right? After some research I found out it's 16 total, and 8 for exhaust/8 for intake.
Yup 8 intake and 8 exhaust for a total of 16.
Just out of habit I go with the actual cam and lifter lube on a new cam.
Your call.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
$30 for a one year subscription to alldatadiy.com will give you the complete vehicle shop manual. It's intense and complete and blows away any Haynes or Chilton book. I have a subscription for every vehicle in my fleet, additional are only $20
I actually did buy an alldataDIY sub for the terrain but when I went to look up whatever Christopher was talking about with ring installation and 90 degrees it didn't have anything. No installation instructions, all it had was part numbers and a generalized time quote for shops to do the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yup 8 intake and 8 exhaust for a total of 16.
Just out of habit I go with the actual cam and lifter lube on a new cam.
Your call.
Looks like I'll be adding COMP Cams 153 Cam and lifter oil along with REV X ZDDP Oil Additive - Zinc & Phosphorus to my shopping list.
 

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A 4 oz bottle of Comp Cam 152 would be perfect.
It should feel like thick, sticky, honey when you put it on the cam and lifter lobes.
 

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Most shops won't even do that ring end gap spacing properly check your messages take a look at the oil pan removal sequence there's lots of little things like the camshaft notch position ECT make sure the rod bolts are in the same orientation on the same rod or else... They are like hydro jet cut or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Most shops won't even do that ring end gap spacing properly check your messages take a look at the oil pan removal sequence there's lots of little things like the camshaft notch position ECT make sure the rod bolts are in the same orientation on the same rod or else... They are like hydro jet cut or something.
I think the rod bolts are torque to yield so they’re getting replaced with brand new ones. Thanks for the info, I’m looking forward to getting my terrain back on the road so I can park my beater with a heater.
 
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