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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
New member in Virginia.

Just purchased a new to me 2013 GMC Terrain Denali out of Georgia Car is a two owner with 102,000 mi. Very well maintained.Has the v6 with the 19-in wheels. Does not appear to have any issue.

Trying to understand a couple things about the car. Really could use some feedback.

In the market for new tires. Not real thrilled with the 19-in selection. Thinking about going 18 or going 20 wondering what the experience of the forum is on this subject. In addition if I change wheel size do I need to change struts and shocks. Seems like the 19-in struts, are double the cost of those for the 18-in wheels. so I really would like to have some input there as well I don't necessarily want to be forced into upgrading struts and shocks if The best bet is just to bite the bullet & buy 19-in tires.

Last but not least air conditioning seems inconsistent on days above 70 it blows warm air on days below 50 it blows cool air.

Thinking it might need to be recharged however have not attempted this yet. Thanks for helping insight appreciate any feedback
 

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The 19 inch wheel and tire option was used on only a few vehicles.
Front steering and suspension components are different in the 19's, see link below.
Price on the struts are pretty close depending where you buy.

The problem comes in the steering gear is different.
Go into the steering section in the link below for part numbers.
I would stay with the 19" wheels and tires.


https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-...ont-suspension-cat/struts-and-components-scat
 

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Good info..
 

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You bought the car in it’s time when everything starts to break on the vehicle. I hope you bought it at a great price.
 

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interesting post.
I recently bought lots of front suspension parts for my 2013 V6. But I have the 18's.
I went with KYB Ready struts. with their current mail in rebate (online submission), they were cheaper in price than Monroe or Gabriel.
I did see that the KYBs and others showed different parts for the 18s vs 19s.

That being said- 99,082 miles. Time for me to do my 100,000 tune up.
No uneven tire wear. (tires are only about 10k miles old).
No Check engine lights, nothing. But Oxygen sensors-- I like to replace before they get lazy and damage the CATs. Thats my personnal opinion.
The only bad parts were- lower ball joints, which I saw the boot was cracked. And a CV axle that was damaged by apparently road debris. So I decided to replace the CV axle instead of replacing the boot.
Surprisingly- getting to the 2 rear Oxygen sensors was easier with all the suspension pieces out of the way. Spark Plugs, rear shocks, brakes, were also done
I Ordered all parts via Rock Auto. $1300 or so in parts.
there are rebates on spark plugs and filters
Did all the work myself- and then drove to get a wheel alignment.
Also-- I found it easier to order the lower control arms- as it comes with new ball joint, front bushing, and rear bushing.
the factory ball joints come with large rivets that you have to grind off or jack hammer off or drill out... try changing the rear bushing...
Its just easier to buy the new arm- and swap them.

But- since youre going to be getting new tires--- check your suspension for worn parts. It may be to your advantage to do as I did- and be set for the next 100,000 miles.
No need to have ball joints done, then another time- bushing, then another time, sway bar, then another time- brake pads, then oxygen sensor, then spark plugs, then struts...
Just easier to get it all out of the way-- when its all right there- apart.

just throwing that idea out there.... it is cheaper in the long run.....
I would guess that having the dealer do the 6 spark plugs and 4 oxygen sensors-- will run you about what I paid for all the parts.







I did have to use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint-- thus it tore the boot . (it was cracked ).
But you can see the ball joint is held in place by big rivets.... good luck removing those. You tube videos shows folks grinding those off... or drilling them off,
But the vehicle is raised overhead and they can drill or grind.
If youre like me- and the car is on jack stands... its much harder.
Just easier to replace the entire arm.



 

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heres the work required for the BALL JOINT only.

 
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