GMC Terrain, Equinox, and SRX Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok i have the 2.4 ecotec engine series LEA i found that out after i got new cam phasers and found out they were not for this engine. anyway, i now have the #3 phasers in the mail and the engine is set to put them in. but as i wait i figure it would be nice to get everything done, so i tried to put coolant into the reservoir and discovered it has a built-in overflow to the ground. i just could not get coolant into the thing. i even took off the top radiator hose ad tried to fill that and it must have been full as it did not take any coolant. so what i did so fat is i took my hand vacuum pump and put it on the small hose from the tank to the engine at the top radiator hose boss. and i pumped coolant into the engine that way, but i have no idea if it is enough. so am i going to have to get one of those vacuum refill tools? or os there a way to get coolant into this car without having to buy and wait on one of those tools?

if there is a way then how do i bleed the air or in doing the process that is told here take care of bleeding? seems the equinox forum can't answer this so maybe there is an equinox guy here that knows. thanks bp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,203 Posts
I have a 2013, with the 3.6 V6.
But when I drained and replaced the water pump... I simply added coolant to the bottle until it filled up.
Knowing there are air pockets in the engine, I simply started vehicle and ran it for a little bit. Get it to warm up. Turned it off. Monitored the bottle for purge air and drop in level
Waited a bit.
Then started engine and let it run more. Being careful knowing that full cooling isnt taking place.
But I let the engine run to get warm enough to open the thermostat and purge more air.
I then shut off engine and let it sit for a bit.
Repeat the engine running- to open up the thermostat, and then rev engine a bit. Taking note of the coolant level in the bottle.
Once it seems full I put the cap back on and went for a short drive with enough engine revvs to circulate coolant at a fast pace with thermostat open.
Then get home and park the car for the day.
The next day, early in the morning, check the reservoir and refill to the full mark.
I continue this process for a week- eventually I reach a point where the level returns to the FULL mark every morning.
Thats when you know youre all set- and all air pockets have been burped out.

Thats my method.
 
  • Like
Reactions: christopherlompoc

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes, i normally do that also. but for the most part, when i filled the coolant tank it would at least take coolant. this one did not want to take any coolant. i had to pull a vacuum on the overflow at the radiator return to the tank and i could see the coolant go down and i did that until i got coolant into the vacuum hand pump. but i was just wondering how other dd the 2.4? when i do get the engine back together i will start it and see how it goes. maybe it will just suck the coolant from the tank and put it into the engine and the heater like you did. but because it did not even want to take any coolant by itself i was curious how other did this. i do not see any YT videos showing the 2013 equinox 2.4. and because i had a time with the cam phasers i'm a bit leary just starting it and then having it overheat and blow out the new head basket, or at least weaken it. i got cam phasers and the fitment charts all said they would fit my engine and so i install them and they did not work, turns out i have the LEA engine and that engine uses 2 exhaust cams and phasers. so the cam phaser pins are not in the same position as most of the 2.4 ecotec engines are. most are 7 and 5 o'clock exhaust and intake but on the LEA the exhaust is 7 and the intake is 10 o'clock. big difference. it is a good thing i did not take a wrench and turn the engine over. i just used the pully to do it and it did not turn but like 30 deg.

thanks, bp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
say i do not know what to tell you but the phasers are both the same part number and when i took the cams back out and compared them they are both the same. when you set the cam the exhaust alignment pin is set to 7 o'clock and the intake is set to 10 o'clock see photo

rock auto show separate cam but for some instances, it has the phasers as intake and exhaust and some that are separate. but 4 engines show setting the cams to this photo and 6 or 8 engine setting the cams to 7 and 5 o'clock. maybe someone will stop and clear that up for us?

oh when i put the valve cover on i forgot the coil packs and drove the 4 coil pack bolts down to set the cover and then it dawned on me i forgot the packs so i had to remove the bolts and install the packs. the center of the head did set down again so i did not bust those bosses to bad. but i bet i dropped some metal into the valley area. looking at the head those bosses are located in captive areas so if any metal did drop into the valleys the metal will set there and not migrate anywhere unless the engine was to get turned over and if that happens the car has more issues than just 4 chunks of metal setting in the valleys.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2010 chevy equinox 2.4
Joined
·
851 Posts
It's super important to know one is a intake cam phaser and one is an exhaust. If you have two phasers on there marked ex then I'm impressed. Anyways make sure the one on the front side of the car is labeled int and the one at the firewall side says ex. Just trying to help, they definitely are not the same part. Make sure the #1 cylinder is tdc on the exhaust stroke. U should have the timing cover off to make sure the link on the timing chain is on the crank dot at the 5 o clock position. U cannot time the motor properly without taking those steps. So crank at 5 and the notches on the cams not the arrows on the phasers in this position.
Poster Font Art Circle Rectangle

Font Material property Circle Technology Parallel
 

·
Registered
2010 chevy equinox 2.4
Joined
·
851 Posts
And please make sure to get all new cam bolts and whatever else you take off like crank bolt and clean bolts and holes with brake cleaner and dry before torqued to spec.... We have had issues in the past.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yes been there done that it is back together and running. also, i took the valve cover off and retrieved the pcs of boss i managed to break off. they were setting in between the exhaust valve springs. where they were setting they would not have caused any issues but better to be safe than sorry.her

now i have her boyfriends subaru in the shop he complained of misfire and what was going on was the #4 plug wire was rubbing a metal tube that goes somewhere on the engine i did not bother to find out what it was for, it was rubbing on that tube and it shorted out so the plug did not get spark. now i have the door apart fixing the d-s power window. and i fixed the radiator fan, not for this site but just saying. anyway, thanks for the info and those photos. i did find them at the gm site that is how i discovered that i had the wrong phasers. and that the old phasers were the same part number. thanks again bp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
don't know but i will find out and let you guys know. the girl drove the car home and told me it ran good. now to see if it starts using oil again. i put in cast iron rings from sealed power, also i put in a normal type pvc system so lets see if that helps. all this started with just brakes, then she said they had it to a mechanic and they wanted 2100$ to pull the engine and do a timing chain. then she told me it was using a gallon of oil a month or more so i figured as long as i was waiting on timing parts i might as well pull the head and pistons and see what was going on. well, i found it. anyway, it is back on the road with new brakes timing and balancer chains and parts in that area and new rod bearings and rings. and associated parts. plus i wound up pulling the engine to do rear main seal and torque converter seal. wow!
thanks bp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the subaru is running great. he said it has not run this good since he got it. and now he is happy he has a drivers window to use again

back to the equinox.. the girl now said when the engine warms up and she is at stops the idle goes from just under 1000 rpms to like 500 rpms maybe slower. she said if she gives it a bit of gas it smooths out or if she puts it in neutral.

so what i tried was choking off the new old school pvc system i installed to the point that as i watched the pinot in the pvc i closed the clamp until the pinto dropped to the bottom of the unit and then i opened the clamp to allow the pinto to rise to about the center of the valve. and she drove it home and it still did the stumbling, so i do not think she is having issues with the new pvc system, it is not setting any codes. so tomorrow i have the car for the day and i'm going to change out the break-in oil and take off the oil pan as that is leaking and put some yamabond on the sealing surface to seal it up. outside of the, she said it is not using oil now. it was using a gallon a month before i overhauled it and put on the old school pvc system.

but now i have to track down that stumble/ slower idle. she said it does not sound like a misfire because the engine sounds like it is running smooth but slower. also i will take the TB off and re clean that just to take that out of the picture. but before i do i'm going to spray some starting fluid around the TB base and intake at the head and the map sensor and brake booster hose to see if i get any rpm changes to see if it may have a vacuum leak but when i put on the vacuum gage it holds good at 18" vacuum.

so for some reason the ecu is slowing the engine to accomadate something?

she can't really tell if it starts stumbling/ running slower when cold as she has no stops until she is about half way to work. i was thinking maybe because it is in open loop the fuel is a bit richer and then in open loop it goes into trims and the 02 sensor on the manifold may be acting up and causing it to run rich and the ecm at stops tries to change it and causes the stumble/running slower. i guess i have to say both because i have yet to hear it or see it.

does anyone happen to know how to reset the idle speed? because i had the battery off for 3 weeks i wonder if the ecu lost some settings ans the idle has to be re-taught?

also i read that the trans can cause this with low fluids. also some say the eco mode can cause it. had the torque conver out for shaft seal repair but that should not cause any converter lockup issues. but ir it was a bit low on fluid and i did lose a bit takeing the converter in and out so if it is a bit low i wonder? tomorrow i'm checking that as well.

keep in mind there are no codes yet.

so any idea welcome, thanks, bp
 

·
Registered
2010 chevy equinox 2.4
Joined
·
851 Posts
does anyone happen to know how to reset the idle speed? because i had the battery off for 3 weeks i wonder if the ecu lost some settings ans the idle has to be re-taught
Reset the ecu with a scan tool or disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. Start run with no accessories 1 minute then in drive with ac, defrost. High beams all accessories for a minute or two with foot on break then go for a drive. Check to make sure the battery voltage doesnt dip too far and double check the little stuff like battery fully charged air filter clean good gas ect first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok thanks. i will give that a try. i have reset the ecu but have not yet done the rest. so tomorrow i will reset the ecu again and start it with nothing running and then turn on the lights high beam ac on defrost blower on high radio on and see how that goes. i assume this will be at idle speeds? as that is what i'm trying to reset. the foot on the brake is just to keep me from running into stuff. the rest is good already battery air filter gas alt puts out good. then drive and see if i can duplicate the idle fluctuating issue again.

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
yes .1 is lean and .9 is rich when ijust ran the live data the s1b1 02 sensor was all over the place. from .1 to .9 it did not settle into any particular area. so i'm thinking that sensor is bad. i know they move but they should not be all over the place i had it the park brake set and in reverse so if the brake failed the car would not run me over being in front of it.
these are the setting i captured
frp 58 psi
map pis 6.2
vss mph 0
spark adv deg 9.0
iat deg f 84
maf " lbs 0.01
tp % 17.3
02b1s1 v .120
02b1s2 v .760
frp psi 453 that is the high pressure the other was the fuel pump
evap " h20 -0.126
what i did hear was the intake vvt solenoid rattling. the unit when i unplugged it the rattle went away. but also it did not do it all the time. i never did get the idle to mess up and the girl said today it did good. she drove it with the eco off but i test drove it with it back on and the idle did good. what i think is happening is the defrosters are on and if it is cold enough they turn on the a/c and that drags down the idle and the engine is not catching it and speeding up. so she may have a sensor in the a/c messing up and my scanner is not picking that up nor the ecu as most don't

also the oil leak was the oil pan at the rear main they have 3 bolts along a 12" length of pan and i think it may have a bit of a warp. i put red rtv in that area and it was all squeezed out so it may have been the fault there. or the center bolt. i will use pipe dope on the threads of that bolt as it goes into the oil area so it may have been the leaks.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top