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Have you checked the throttle body to see if it is all gunked up/dirty? That is easy to get to.
Dirty throttle body can make the RPM jump up and down. Interesting that it does so after a long trip.
 

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smooth78u said:
can a map sensor do that ?
I don't think so. MAS/MAP sensor gets gunked up it won't be able to tell if there is a higher flow rate of air because the dirt insulates the wires and the air can't cool the wires. MAS/MAP sensor, I would think, is more of a problem at higher speeds and the engine would run lean.
 

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smooth78u said:
spark plugs ? .I check for air leak .no air leak
I don't think it's the spark plugs. Don't hurt to look at them though. Easy to do. Check out my reply out on this thread.
http://www.equinoxforum.net/index.php?topic=23978.0

You can look at the spark plugs and they will tell you alot. Good fowled spark plugs and look at pictures to compare.

I think it is fuel related but possibly transmission too.

By surging and buck, do mean that the car physically surges and bucks or just the rpm... Guess if it is in gear than yes the car is physically doing this.
I am wondering if it's not the transmission.
 

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I did a search on this forum for the word "surging" and the threads usually talk about the camshaft actuator and high pressure fuel pump. But they don't described your exact surging issue.
In N and it stops... Wondering if it is a selanoid in the transmission.

I'm just a diy who is learning quickly about my newly purchased Nox.

Take it to ANOTHER dealer.

I am waiting on this this to come in the mail😂
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
The torque pro app ($5) is as good as most shop's scanner.
Must have PC laptop or Android. Doesn't work with i-phone etc
 

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It a tool you might find helpful. Supposed to be as good as the $200 scanner. Bluetooth device to hook up to obdll and the app is torque pro (other brands available). You can have it live scanning your cars systems from O2 sensor to transmission temp sensors (should be able to tell the tourque converter lockup from that). You will have to reaching and learn what each sensor should read but for less than $30 you may have a better chance of success than the dealer does in finding the problem.

I should be getting it Thursday 😊 I love cheap but fun toys.
 

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Yes it can.
I just got my Nox with 58,000 miles on it. I had the transmission flushed. I gave the mechanic the fluid I wanted (used 12 quarts Valvoline full synthetic dexron vi to do the flush and fill)
It was cruddy and needed it.
Others here do a simple drain and fill about 3 times which will clean out almost all the old fluid. They drain and fill, run it for a hundred miles or a week, drain and fill and repeat once more. I will do that every 25,000 miles or so from now on. I wanted a flush this first time.
My shifting has greatly improved.
At 44,000 miles, probably should at least do a drain and fill.
Also, I drained and filled my transfer case and differential on my own. Very easy. They were really bad/dirty.
 

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New to the Nox said:
Yes it can.
I just got my Nox with 58,000 miles on it. I had the transmission flushed. I gave the mechanic the fluid I wanted (used 12 quarts Valvoline full synthetic dexron vi to do the flush and fill)
It was cruddy and needed it.
Others here do a simple drain and fill about 3 times which will clean out almost all the old fluid. They drain and fill, run it for a hundred miles or a week, drain and fill and repeat once more. I will do that every 25,000 miles or so from now on. I wanted a flush this first time.
My shifting has greatly improved.
At 44,000 miles, probably should at least do a drain and fill.
Also, I drained and filled my transfer case and differential on my own. Very easy. They were really bad/dirty.
Of course you're transmission is under warranty and they should fix the issue.
 

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smooth78u said:
i clean all .throttle body no dirty and MAF .. So would do you think it maybe?.im going let deal shoping clean transmission


throttle body was bad update..yay fix it
Thank you for the update! Was it dirty or needed to be replaced?
Hope this solves the issue.
 

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Either the throttle body was not the problem or they didn't reset the computer. ...I think.

Do you have an Android phone? $5 app for torque pro and the obd2 scanner I linked to above is great!

There are many causes.
Google search and learn what O2 sensor readings and fuel trim readings should look like.
My fuel rail pressure runs from 400 psi at idle to over 2,000 psi under load. My mainline fuel pressure is around 50 psi depending on load.
You will be able to look at the maf sensor readings and many other readings.

For $26 total, you can figure this out and it will be better than spending money on parts you don't need and doesn't fix the problem.

I was able to rent a compression tester from AutoZone for free(with deposit) and it's easy to test the compression on this engine. Look up videos on it.

Your dealer doesn't know what is wrong obviously.

Good luck and let us and others reading this what happens.
:thumb:
 

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JayT2014 said:
^ ^ ^

- - - - ?
He has the word "okay" in the middle of the quote.
He is still getting used to working with this forum 😊
 

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What kind of gas mileage do you get?
Since this problem started, has there been rough idle or noise?
I can think of all kinds of possible causes... Including a bad high pressure fuel pump.
Without seeing some scan data, especially when the acting up occurs, we won't know for sure.
See if they have a scanner that they can attach and record and drive it home with it recording until the problem comes up? Just a thought.
 

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smooth78u said:
i have to checking to see. .yes rough idle before new throttle body. No noise.i asking the.. I was unleaded premium in the summertime now I'm back using unleaded does that make it any difference? Soon as I stop using premium then that's when I noticed that my problems start act up
Hmm, you are now throwing in another variable, summer and winter. So it started acting up when you went to regular in winter? How cold is your temperatures?
On second thought, temperature should not have anything to do with this since engine is warmed up after highway driving.
Octane level of your gasoline could be a big clue.
Higher octane simply prevents the fuel from predetination.
By the way, I am learning my own car. I only have some knowledge and Little experience lol😊
 

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smooth78u said:
so is it warms up and get off interstate bama start acting up . should go back using a premium see if that helps
Timing chain has also been a common problem, even for a 2013.
Do you check your oil levels and is it down?
If so, when was the last time you had an oil change. Oil consumption and timing chain issue tends to go hand in hand here.

I am having an issue with m 2011 2.4l.
Checked my compression and all 4 were rather high. Usually the problem is too low.
Anyway, very high compression is indicative of high carbon buildup. I started using high octane fuel and my car seems to be running smoother with better gas mileage.
However, running higher octane is expensive and will only cover up the problem.
My likely cause for the high carbon in the cylinders is that the previous owners drove mostly city and didn't take care of it. However, it could be something else.
I am figuring this out myself before giving$80 to a dealer to tell me nothing is wrong or I don't know.
 

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smooth78u said:
Transmission fluid it is clear not red is good or bad and ::) has metal shaven
Usually, transmission fluid is pink/red. Transfer case fluid is clear.
Did you drain it or just looked at the fluid from the side fill plug?
Some metal shavings is normal, especially from initial break-in. Someone here can correct me on that.

I guess I am concerned that you drained the transfer case which is not far from the transmission 🤔
I don't know but maybe the fluid in the transmission is clear for the Equinox.

Anyway, black fluid is bad. Clear or pink is good.
 

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smooth78u said:
okay .my Transmission fluid it is clear kind oil look .should i do a transmission flush or change
How are you checking the transmission fluid?
There is no transmission fluid dipstick so I am asking this to make sure you are actually looking at transmission fluid.
The only dipstick is for engine oil.

Something is not right here.
 

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---put pvc hose in where black cap is

Huh?
Sorry, but you are not making any sense
 

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smooth78u said:
sorry you know black cap is on top of transmission I put very small hose in hole to check transmission fluid?
Never tried that.
Anyway, rbarrios is right, it should be red and since you have about 44,000 miles on it, probably getting dark.

If you are getting metal shavings on the tube, from the top that is not good.

You can drain it and fill it about 3 times and you will have almost all the fluid change out. When you drain it there is fluid still left in the torque converter. So drain and fill, drive for a week, drain and fill, drive for a week, and drain and fill.
I like Valvoline full synthetic dexron vi. Need dexron vi for the warranty.
If you choose to flush, don't go to the dealer. Go somewhere cheaper. Make sure their flush is simply pushing through the transmission fluid with more transmission fluid. Some will flush with a cleaning agent.... That is not advisable.
A flush will take about 12 quarts of fluid. You can pick it up at Wal-Mart and the shops will usually than just charge for the labor.
I would change out the transfer case and differential if you have AWD. Mine was nasty black at 58,000. Easy diy job. Amsoil severe gear was my choice on that but any decent synthetic is good.
 

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I cannot find that in my manual. I know that we are not to have cleaning agents in the transmission.
 

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Nick24 said:
I think its one page 10-1

Changed at 160,000 km

I just notice it says change, not flush
Ah, okay. I was looking for the word flush and it's specific ban.
 
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