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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
have been to dealerships 18time the keep tell me not wrong about my car . if I diver for long time getting off exit come to red light RPM go up and down surging and buck no code light 47 000 milese help me out and I have video too .
no clue what is wrong with it
 

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Not sure if this is of help but you may have a DTC stored in history since you don't have a check engine light. An auto parts store could pull the code for you, if there is one, for free and that could give you a starting point.
 

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4 cylinder or 6 cylinder engine?

I 4 cylinder. . . .. turn ECO mode OFF and see how it behaves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
13NOX said:
Not sure if this is of help but you may have a DTC stored in history since you don't have a check engine light. An auto parts store could pull the code for you, if there is one, for free and that could give you a starting point.
okay im going to autozone today.. w'e did use code scan and no codes /pep boys told me go cost 89.95 put on computer .
 

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Have you checked the throttle body to see if it is all gunked up/dirty? That is easy to get to.
Dirty throttle body can make the RPM jump up and down. Interesting that it does so after a long trip.
 

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smooth78u said:
can a map sensor do that ?
I don't think so. MAS/MAP sensor gets gunked up it won't be able to tell if there is a higher flow rate of air because the dirt insulates the wires and the air can't cool the wires. MAS/MAP sensor, I would think, is more of a problem at higher speeds and the engine would run lean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
New to the Nox said:
I don't think so. MAS/MAP sensor gets gunked up it won't be able to tell if there is a higher flow rate of air because the dirt insulates the wires and the air can't cool the wires. MAS/MAP sensor, I would think, is more of a problem at higher speeds and the engine would run lean.
spark plugs ? .I check for air leak .no air leak
 

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smooth78u said:
spark plugs ? .I check for air leak .no air leak
I don't think it's the spark plugs. Don't hurt to look at them though. Easy to do. Check out my reply out on this thread.
http://www.equinoxforum.net/index.php?topic=23978.0

You can look at the spark plugs and they will tell you alot. Good fowled spark plugs and look at pictures to compare.

I think it is fuel related but possibly transmission too.

By surging and buck, do mean that the car physically surges and bucks or just the rpm... Guess if it is in gear than yes the car is physically doing this.
I am wondering if it's not the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
New to the Nox said:
I don't think it's the spark plugs. Don't hurt to look at them though. Easy to do. Check out my reply out on this thread.
http://www.equinoxforum.net/index.php?topic=23978.0

You can look at the spark plugs and they will tell you alot. Good fowled spark plugs and look at pictures to compare.

I think it is fuel related but possibly transmission too.

By surging and buck, do mean that the car physically surges and bucks or just the rpm... Guess if it is in gear than yes the car is physically doing this.
I am wondering if it's not the transmission.
soon as I put in N ITS STOP no surging hmm ..
 

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I did a search on this forum for the word "surging" and the threads usually talk about the camshaft actuator and high pressure fuel pump. But they don't described your exact surging issue.
In N and it stops... Wondering if it is a selanoid in the transmission.

I'm just a diy who is learning quickly about my newly purchased Nox.

Take it to ANOTHER dealer.

I am waiting on this this to come in the mail😂
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
The torque pro app ($5) is as good as most shop's scanner.
Must have PC laptop or Android. Doesn't work with i-phone etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
New to the Nox said:
I did a search on this forum for the word "surging" and the threads usually talk about the camshaft actuator and high pressure fuel pump. But they don't described your exact surging issue.
In N and it stops... Wondering if it is a selanoid in the transmission.

I'm just a diy who is learning quickly about my newly purchased Nox.

Take it to ANOTHER dealer.

I am waiting on this this to come in the mail😂
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
The torque pro app ($5) is as good as most shop's scanner.
Must have PC laptop or Android. Doesn't work with i-phone etc

3 diff Car Dealership time cant find any thing ..tomorrow take to new dealer ..what is this post to ? ask about scanner.tool
 

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It a tool you might find helpful. Supposed to be as good as the $200 scanner. Bluetooth device to hook up to obdll and the app is torque pro (other brands available). You can have it live scanning your cars systems from O2 sensor to transmission temp sensors (should be able to tell the tourque converter lockup from that). You will have to reaching and learn what each sensor should read but for less than $30 you may have a better chance of success than the dealer does in finding the problem.

I should be getting it Thursday 😊 I love cheap but fun toys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
New to the Nox said:
It a tool you might find helpful. Supposed to be as good as the $200 scanner. Bluetooth device to hook up to obdll and the app is torque pro (other brands available). You can have it live scanning your cars systems from O2 sensor to transmission temp sensors (should be able to tell the tourque converter lockup from that). You will have to reaching and learn what each sensor should read but for less than $30 you may have a better chance of success than the dealer does in finding the problem.

I should be getting it Thursday 😊 I love cheap but fun toys.let ask a ? If transmission flud is drity will make selanoid act up ,
 

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Yes it can.
I just got my Nox with 58,000 miles on it. I had the transmission flushed. I gave the mechanic the fluid I wanted (used 12 quarts Valvoline full synthetic dexron vi to do the flush and fill)
It was cruddy and needed it.
Others here do a simple drain and fill about 3 times which will clean out almost all the old fluid. They drain and fill, run it for a hundred miles or a week, drain and fill and repeat once more. I will do that every 25,000 miles or so from now on. I wanted a flush this first time.
My shifting has greatly improved.
At 44,000 miles, probably should at least do a drain and fill.
Also, I drained and filled my transfer case and differential on my own. Very easy. They were really bad/dirty.
 
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