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For those of you unfamiliar with the Vega motor, I believe it's main issue was the all aluminum motor combined with the inadequate 8 quart cooling system. My GF at the time had a 71 Vega, 4 speed, and on a good day 25 mpg was tops. At any rate on those motors, 1 quart low on coolant > overheating > once overheated it was an oil burner.
 

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Pete, I've been racking my brain trying to figure out why you're having issues with the filter collapsing and I haven't seen it. Both your engine and my wife's are relatively low mileage so I wouldn't think that blow-by would be an issue yet. It's probably a long shot and I'm grasping at straws but you might try getting a new oil filter cap, they're not all that expensive. If your cap is only a thread or two too long, it would start crushing the filter once tightened down. GM has less than a stellar record of sourcing parts, using multiple suppliers, the one that is the cheapest at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Another issue with the Vega motor was that all aluminum block with the cylinder bores coated with a Teflon like substance instead of being steel sleeved. When the coating wore off, you had a oil burner.My father traded in a 1969 Chevelle SS 396 for a Vega because gas doubled from .25¢ a gallon to .50¢ a gallon. 🥴
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Since the filter is attached to the cap, it spins on install and removal. Some damage could occur during removal. I will be sure to check next oil change to see if some damage I am seeing may be caused by this. The first changes I did the pleats we're folded flat on one side.
 

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2010 chevy equinox 2.4
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Try picking up a real acdelco filter from the dealership. Idk to get the rings to seat right if it's really low milage I would shift it manually and do some long downshifting. A compression test should be done to make sure the cylenders are all close in psi. Since it is a 2012 not rebuilt I would probably also run some gummout or something in the tank to soften up some of the carbon the rings already accumulated maybe help them seat without sticking. Prior to my 2 rebuilds on a 2010 I had rings getting stuck every week. At almost 140k miles now. If you open the oil cap while it's running it should just be little puffs of exhaust if you have really bad blow by you can tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Agree on the gas treatment. I use it because the injectors are in the combustion chamber and also build up carbon. To help prevent and or release stuck rings I tried some Hot Shots Secret Stiction Eliminator. WOW. I could not believe the immediate difference it made. As you described, the rings either seated or became unstuck. The engine was much quieter, more responsive. I now use this as directed in my oil changes and seems to be very beneficial to these troublesome engines.
 

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For those of you unfamiliar with the Vega motor, I believe it's main issue was the all aluminum motor combined with the inadequate 8 quart cooling system. My GF at the time had a 71 Vega, 4 speed, and on a good day 25 mpg was tops. At any rate on those motors, 1 quart low on coolant > overheating > once overheated it was an oil burner.
Those early Vegas did have more issues, although all did eventually. But I have no issues with low coolant or over heating. The other things is that there were some changes in engine components and even the piston design and material coating.
In fact, the drive train had a number of changes over the course of the Vega.
IIRC, my '74 Vega GT had the same manual 4 speed GM used in the Nova. Much better than the '71 and different gear ratios as well which might have accounted for my better MPG.
The larger issue was fender rust out in 3 years or so if you lived in the rust belt where road salt was used in winter. Of course, I remember Honda Civic, Datsun and others rusting out in haste as well.
 

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Unless your Vega had the Cosworth motor....
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
It is expensive but owning one of these engines could get very expensive without proper preventative maintenance. Clean oil is the life of any engine but is especially true with this one. I have experienced the timing chain rattle a couple of times but not one time since I started using the Stiction Eliminator. Was unaware of the small oil hole in the TC oiler but what I have read is the TC tensioner will get stuck where it is not applying enough tension and that is where the trouble starts. I do expect a chain replacement at 100k just to be safe. After initial treatment of 16 oz to 5 qts of oil then 8 oz every 3rd oil change. I owned a 96 Saturn with the same basic engine without GDI that everyone was saying was a oil burner but with proper maintenance I got over 100,000 miles and never burned a drop of oil. I aim to do the same with this one. 😬
 

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I have noticed when I change my oil and remove the filter it is partially collapsed. I.have observed this within 2 to 3 thousand miles. What is causing this? Is it crankcase pressure or does it happen when pressure is applied to remove the filter. How can prove which one it is. If the filter is collapsing during normal operation and is serviced more than recommended intervals this is a huge problem and just another in a long list of issues with these engines.
I had the same crushed filter problem with my 2010 Equinox 2.4L Ecotec. I was using the Fram 9018 oil filters. I switched to the Fram XG9018 which has a metal screen inside the filter and that ended my crushed filter issue. The filters cost $3 or $4 more but give me peace of mind.
 
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