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Discussion Starter #1
As soon as the weather warms up I plan on doing my first coolant flush on my 2011 Terrain. It's 5 years old and has around 63,000 on it now. I figured now's about the time. Is there any "gotchas" or advice you guys having on flushing a terrain? What steps did you guys take?

Thanks.

Also... Should I go ahead and replace the thermostat? Its a cheap enough part but I can't find any guide online showing the location on the terrain.
 

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With the Search command, you will be able to find detailed instructions on this forum. I did mine, and didn't replace the thermostat, and I can't recall anyone else doing that as preventative maintenance, Since a faulty thermostat is unlikely to leave you stranded, I would just wait til it goes.

Good luck, and it is not a real tough process.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I tried doing a search and I found some useful information but nothing very specific. Maybe I just didn't specify my search very well. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank You. That is comprehensive enough. The only thing I noticed is that his guide says to expect around 4-6 quarts to drain. But According to the book the vehicle holds 10.6 quarts of coolant. So I assume that letting it drain will not get all of the coolant out?

Nevermind, I found the answer. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One last question and I think I'm set. Does the terrain have a bleed screw? I am searching the forum and googling around but not finding an answer/location?
 

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Daedra said:
One last question and I think I'm set. Does the terrain have a bleed screw? I am searching the forum and googling around but not finding an answer/location?
I never found a bleed screw on my 4 cylinder.
 

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It appears common these days that a lot of coolant remains in the engine. And from past experience, it takes a lot of water fill, run and drain, to get most of the old coolant out.
BTDT.

Not sure there's an easy way around that without taking half the engine apart.


My 2¢
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah that seems to be the what I am finding on various threads and videos. I am thinking that since a decent amount of water is left in the engine after a flush wouldn't it make sense to go a little more like 60-40 coolant to water ratio to compensate for this?
 

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Daedra said:
Yeah that seems to be the what I am finding on various threads and videos. I am thinking that since a decent amount of water is left in the engine after a flush wouldn't it make sense to go a little more like 60-40 coolant to water ratio to compensate for this?
I keep recycling fluid through the system until what I get out is pretty much 100% water. Then, if the system's capacity is 10 quarts, I will add 100% antifreeze until I get 5 quarts of antifreeze in (if I can), and then i will fill the rest with water.
 

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*Disclaimer* I've haven't yet done a coolant flush in my Nox.
Personally, I just keep adding 50/50 until what come out of the engine looks mostly like coolant. Usually only takes an extra quart or two over the capacity to be sure you've displaced most of the water. It doesn't instantly mix and dilute like you might think it would.

In my other vehicles, it was easiest to just disconnect the upper hose from the radiator and direct it downward to a catch pan. In my old 3800, I actually did the opposite and added the 50/50 to the upper hose and watched it come out the bottom hose.

In the end, my coolant tester says I hit the 50/50 mark.
 

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dwendt44 said:
It appears common these days that a lot of coolant remains in the engine. And from past experience, it takes a lot of water fill, run and drain, to get most of the old coolant out.
BTDT.

Not sure there's an easy way around that without taking half the engine apart.


My 2¢
The 2.4L has a drain plug in the water pump that helps.
Not sure what year they started that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I did the flush yesterday. It went pretty smoothly. I had some trouble with the petcock, I thought I had broken it at first because it wouldn't tighten back up after I loosened it to drain the coolant. I figured out that you have to push in as your turn. It's kind of annoying where they put the petcock because its hard to get leverage on it with the way its facing. After I figured it out it took about three fill and drains of distilled water to get all the old coolant out. Then I just filled it up with a gallon (4 quarts of straight prestone dex) and I was done. It was more time consuming than I anticipated but it was easy enough.

I decided to do a drain and fill of the transmission fluid since it was such a nice day. That was the easiest thing I've had to do on the Terrain. It was easier than an oil change. That only took about 15 minutes. Like others have stated, on a drain and fill you only get about half the fluid out. So I plan on driving it for a week then doing it again to get more of the old fluid out since the process is so simple.
 

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Thanks for the review of your maintenance procedures. Very helpful. :thumb:


When the time comes for a transmission fluid change, now all can rest a bit easier at how simple it is.
 

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Changed out the coolant on the 2010 at 100k miles. As everyone has said, pretty simple procedure. Was surprised at how clean the old coolant was when removed. No rust, very little dirt, and actually made me feel I didn't need to change it at all.
 

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Islander2 said:
Was surprised at how clean the old coolant was when removed. No rust,
yeah, when the cooling system has no leaks....
Dexcool will keep the engine SUPER Clean.

The image below is what the inside of my 4200 inline 6 engine looks like when I changed out the thermostat /coolant on my 2003 Trailblazer. I believe the mileage at the time was 133,000.

Now nearing 180,000

YOu can see the small sphere prints from the lost foam casting method.


 

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Discussion Starter #17
I notice the same thing. My Dex was clean and it probably could of easily gone another 40-50000 before I really needed to change it. My tranny fluid was pretty brown though and was definitely ready for a change.
 

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One thing to keep in mind - - - :thumb:
The coolant may look good and clean, but anti corrosion additives weaken or slowly stop working. If left in too long, the aluminum in the radiator and heater core can corrode and cause leaks or just partially clog up.

So it is wise to change the coolant at least every 5 years or even less.
Sometimes it pays to fix what isn't broken before it does. :cheers:
 

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JayTee2014 said:
Sometimes it pays to fix what isn't broken before it does. :cheers:
Kinda like the old Fram commercial, "you can pay me now, or you can pay me later" - but they don't tell you that the later payment is often much higher.
 

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Daedra,

What about "burping" the air out of the system? Is the Nox self-bleeding or is there a screw near the t-stat?

86,200 on my Nox and original coolant still in there. Gotta do it before the next big trip in the summer. Might convert to the green stuff so all my cars use the same coolant. Did that with my '02 Impala back in '07
 
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