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I don't think it was level but temp that PCM was seeing at shutdown making them stay on. I've seen that on my vehicles occasionally on hot days with a/c usage.
Also possible that fan relay is sticking erratically, there's a lot of miles on that relay and relays do stick closed when they get old. I had one do that on my Tahoe and kill the battery a couple years ago, can't remember which one but I changed a couple of the higher amperage ones on it and no more issues.
 
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Discussion Starter #42
I don't think it was level but temp that PCM was seeing at shutdown making them stay on. I've seen that on my vehicles occasionally on hot days with a/c usage.
Also possible that fan relay is sticking erratically, there's a lot of miles on that relay and relays do stick closed when they get old. I had one do that on my Tahoe and kill the battery a couple years ago, can't remember which one but I changed a couple of the higher amperage ones on it and no more issues.
Yeah, hope it's just a sticky relay because whenever I've seen this happen in the past with my other cars it was because coolant was escaping somewhere (leaking insidiously and vaporizing either at the radiator or some small elbow hose on top of the engine). Shame on me for not knowing where the original coolant level was. Even with a new vehicle, you still need to baseline everything ... but I didn't do it in this case. Just have to watch it and see what happens. I keep adding things to my "Watch List", and not actually fixing anything! LOL! Maybe I'll be able to watch this vehicle roll all the way to 222,222 miles without a single repair (other than the Purge Valve).
 

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Discussion Starter #43
UPDATE: So my Nox sat still on the driveway for at least 10 days, and I turned it over this morning to drive to work and immediately saw the "Stabilitrak" error in the cluster. As usual, I ignored it, and drove to work anyway. Maybe 5-7 miles down the road - it disappeared.

Haven't bothered to change that Wheel Speed Sensor on the rear wheel, either (after it popped up that OBD code saying it was faulty months ago)... yet I've driven (4) 900-mile legs on I-95 now without seeing it reappear. Now it's the Stabilitrak "issue" as soon as I turn the vehicle ON after it's been sitting dormant for 10 days. I think these are all "Fake Issues" ... and maybe the very first signs of a battery in decline? The battery that's in there right now (Walmart EverStart) is only the first changeout after the OEM/factory battery ... so it's at least 4 years old. Probably change the battery out again next year and we'll see if the behavior changes. See how concerned I am about any of this stuff? LOL!
 

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On my old '99 Yukon the front sensor rings where internal to the hub/bearing assy. so no rusted tone rings . Sensor ''plugged'' into bearing housing externally. I chased a erratic code, changed sensors, etc. as it was a must fix due to low speed activation shortening dry road stopping big time, almost rear ending or ''stuttering'' through stop signs when least expected .
Turned out rust on the outside ''swelled'' the mounting area increasing it's air gap inside making it trip erratically. My first lesson on ABS issues.
 
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Discussion Starter #45
Another 3,000 mile trip in the books without a single sign of that Wheel Speed Sensor problem (w/Stabilitrak lights, too)!

So - looking back at my records (now), the code "C0045" (Rear Left Wheel Speed Sensor), which caused the Stabilitrak and ABS "idiot" lights to appear (but had no discernible effect on driveability), first appeared on 8/29/19 at 133,731 miles (during one of my trips), and now I just crossed 156,000 miles and no sign of it again (even though I've done absolutely nothing in terms of a repair). Hmmm ....
 

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