Wish I could actually test the sensor ... but regardless - it doesn't look like there's any easy way to replace it: The guy in the video ripped it all apart - right down to the emergency brake shoes in order to pull the sensor through the opening from the wheel side.
We'll see what the Helm manual has to say ...
You can with a volt/ohm meter, see link below.
Better to graph it if you can, I use a 25 year old MT 2400 Vantage.
Well, I *think* my sensor is “working” - because I only see the “Stabilitrak/ABS” messages sporadically. So if I do what the guy in the video did, it’d probably pass the test. And even if I could log it on my Harbor Fake code reader - that wouldn’t be definitive either.
Gonna have to tear it apart, I’m afraid - and get a set of eyes on it, too.
Too bad these sensors aren’t more easily replaceable, OR - an easy way to patch them out in software - so if your hub is still good, but the encoder or sensor is bad, you could just toggle a checkbox to say “this wheel speed sensor is disabled for now ... ignore it, and don’t post any alarms or errors related to it”.
Once again I go back to: not enough easy-to-read diagnostics and parameterization in these vehicles. Computerize everything with big screens and big price tags, but we’re not going to use any of it to help you out with repairs to your vehicle - even though we could very easily do it!
But we ARE going to continue to add more and more failure points, and even disable your vehicle when some of these “failures” occur so you can continue to come to our dealerships for expensive repairs. Thank you!