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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, so it took almost 134,000 miles (from brand new) to be “infected” by this, but it just happened to my Nox going my usual 75 mph on I-95 in clear weather. Got the message in the DIC and the two amber icons in the cluster. As I was rolling along it would disappear then reappear. I tried toggling the Traction Control button to see if that had any effect, but no. And then the next morning, there it was again ... so it’s real. I think I was witnessing the slow death of a Sensor real-time, right?

So I won’t be doing anything about this anytime soon - except ignoring it - due to the extremely poor timing of it (but that’s par for the course, right)?

I don’t *think* this will be an issue. After all, no Check Engine light, and I don’t *need* these things. They’re just “nice to have” things (when they not failing).

But they sure *make* it look like you’re in Dire Straights with all the lights and messages. Overkill, IMO...

One question though - how do you know which Sensor is failing? And is this the one integral to the hub or is it independent? I guess I need to do some (re) reading .... huh?
 

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OK, so it took almost 134,000 miles (from brand new) to be “infected” by this, but it just happened to my Nox going my usual 75 mph on I-95 in clear weather. Got the message in the DIC and the two amber icons in the cluster. As I was rolling along it would disappear then reappear. I tried toggling the Traction Control button to see if that had any effect, but no. And then the next morning, there it was again ... so it’s real. I think I was witnessing the slow death of a Sensor real-time, right?

So I won’t be doing anything about this anytime soon - except ignoring it - due to the extremely poor timing of it (but that’s par for the course, right)?

I don’t *think* this will be an issue. After all, no Check Engine light, and I don’t *need* these things. They’re just “nice to have” things (when they not failing).

But they sure *make* it look like you’re in Dire Straights with all the lights and messages. Overkill, IMO...

One question though - how do you know which Sensor is failing? And is this the one integral to the hub or is it independent? I guess I need to do some (re) reading .... huh?


when our 2010 terrain did it the first time it was a front hub sensor ( built into hub) and after a day or so it would start trying to apply the abs all the time. it became pretty much undrivable. when the other front hub failed it just turned the light on and didn’t show any other symptoms. i do remember the bearing was a lot more worn on the first one. either way yes they are all built into the hubs and you can tell which one by scanning it with a scan tool. it’ll give an abs fault for a certain wheel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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One question though - how do you know which Sensor is failing? And is this the one integral to the hub or is it independent? I guess I need to do some (re) reading .... huh?
If your problem is a bad wheel speed sensor check the DTC number.
There are 4 different DTC codes, one for each wheel (front/back/left /right).
If only the sensor is bad you can slide it out, unplug it, and slide a new one in.
Anything more than that you will need to replace the bearing/hub assembly.

At least that is the way for the 2014.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I hope my Harbor Freight code reader can read the code. It’s *supposed* to be able to read ABS codes - I purposely paid a few extra bucks for that capability, but I won’t be surprised if it fails...

If the ABS starts misfiring, that would be a really bad thing right now...
 

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Yeah, I hope my Harbor Freight code reader can read the code. It’s *supposed* to be able to read ABS codes - I purposely paid a few extra bucks for that capability, but I won’t be surprised if it fails...

If the ABS starts misfiring, that would be a really bad thing right now...
Do what everyone else does, pull in to your local Auto Zone or O'Rielly's and have them scan it.
Getting that DTC code would help a lot.
There are 20 different DTC codes on the first page of the speed sensor circuit alone.
Volume 1, Chapter 5, Page 13 of the 2014 Repair Manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hasn’t appeared in days now, and I never tried to read the code before it disappeared. Now I’m wondering if the code is even readable now with the idiot lights out...
 

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Hasn’t appeared in days now, and I never tried to read the code before it disappeared. Now I’m wondering if the code is even readable now with the idiot lights out...

I know how to find out...and I'll bet you do you do to !
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hasn’t appeared in days now, and I never tried to read the code before it disappeared. Now I’m wondering if the code is even readable now with the idiot lights out...

I know how to find out...and I'll bet you do you do to !
Yeah, but ignorance is bliss, right?

And besides - I’ve been busy chewing out the Insurance bozos every day this week for all their incompetence and just plain stupid, mindless, conflicting, and/or purposely misleading answers to my questions!!!
 

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some of the harbor freight units-- like mine--- have 2- codes that are backwards.
A member replaced the sensor on the wheel-- that the code pointed to.
but issue was still there.
turns out- it was at another wheel. This was confirmed by using a different brand scanner- that pointed to the correct wheel.


I checked my scanners codes.. and sure enough mine was wrong also.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just went out there to dump the codes and BOY did it take a dump on me!

No other codes. These (14) were stored under ABS:

1.) U3FB0
2.) U20FF
3.) P0CE3
4.) B0E97
5.) U22D4
6.) B3E91
7.) B1310
8.) B2E83
9.) P2BFC
10.) B394E
11.) P0BFE
12.) P3F48
13.) U3FD4
14.) B10FF


Now - this is the first time I've ever scanned for ABS codes. Never had a reason to, nor was I curious enough to. All the other modules had no codes stored or pending. So it's all ABS. Maybe some (or all?) of these codes have been there since Day-1, or maybe one or two of them are cascading into the rest? I don't know, but I've got to go meet someone right now (in this suddenly questionable vehicle), so you guys can research these for me.


And oh - the Stabilitrak message popped up again twice today - first time since the first post here.

THANKS! LOL!
 

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Colt - I looked up those codes, and it said that you should immediately purchase a 2020 GMC Acadia. LOL
 

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Your code reader speaks a foreign language.
GM Anti-Lock Brake DTC codes start with the letter C and is followed by 4 or 6 numbers.

To save time, clear all codes and drive the vehicle until you get a light on the dash.
No need to spend hours researching codes that are years old.
Your GM Service Manual can help you when the codes are in the C XXXX format.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Your code reader speaks a foreign language.
GM Anti-Lock Brake DTC codes start with the letter C and is followed by 4 or 6 numbers.

To save time, clear all codes and drive the vehicle until you get a light on the dash.
No need to spend hours researching codes that are years old.
Your GM Service Manual can help you when the codes are in the C XXXX format.
Yeah - I started searching the Web for those codes and literally couldn’t find a single one! But I wasn’t surprised: Harbor Freight, Chinese, you get what you pay for. The only reason I bought that thing was because my Actron was too old to read my 2011 Nox. Only cost me ~$80.

I’ll try the clear and see what happens next.

Rit: Acadia could be next, yup!
 

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But you didn't hit 222,222.2 yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
But you didn't hit 222,222.2 yet.
I know. The report card grade at mid-term was an “A-“, but the Final Grade is still very much up-in-the-air ... and that’s what’s most important. Almost any properly-designed-and-Built vehicle can go 134,000 miles from brand new. It’s what happens in that last 90,000 that makes the final grade!

Anyway - I did another scan and 50 (!!) codes came up! So I tried scanning as a passenger car and got one code: C0045 (Low Tire Pressure ... WTF?!?).

Then I cleared the codes, said it cleared them (after about 2 minutes), but they don’t seem to be cleared because when I immediately RE-scan all 50 reappear! If I do the same thing with non-ABS DTCs, they go away and don’t reappear.

Starting to think this thing really cannot read ABS codes properly! Big surprise, right?

This is the Harbor Fake Centech 60794 OBD/EOBD+ABS code reader, BTW.
 

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Might your battery voltage be low ? Many funky thing show up when computer has low voltage. Maybe do a battery disconnect? Certainly it can't be a problem with YOUR car !
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Might your battery voltage be low ? Many funky thing show up when computer has low voltage. Maybe do a battery disconnect? Certainly it can't be a problem with YOUR car !
Ahhhh.... could be .... maybe. That’s the only battery replacement since new. It’s at least 3 years old, I think ...
 

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Anyway - I did another scan and 50 (!!) codes came up! So I tried scanning as a passenger car and got one code: C0045 (Low Tire Pressure ... WTF?!?).
Hmmmm, very interesting.

My Repair Manual shows C0045 to be the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor.
What does your Manual say??
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Anyway - I did another scan and 50 (!!) codes came up! So I tried scanning as a passenger car and got one code: C0045 (Low Tire Pressure ... WTF?!?).
Hmmmm, very interesting.

My Repair Manual shows C0045 to be the Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor.
What does your Manual say??
I don’t know. No access right now.

But that’s interesting because that’s the wheel with the tire that blew out on me at 75 mph on a clear morning two years ago at Christmas on I95. Maybe just coincidence? I replaced it with a new Michelin Latitude for $175 - $50 credit because I argued it was a side-wall failure. Tire only had about 7500 miles on it, but I digress ...

So it’s *not* a low tire pressure code, but a wheel speed sensor code?

Weird that I had to scan as passenger car, too! Not sure if I trust any of this information.
 

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So it’s *not* a low tire pressure code, but a wheel speed sensor code?

Weird that I had to scan as passenger car, too! Not sure if I trust any of this information.
TPMS codes start with C0569 and go to C0775 in my Manual.
I would not trust your code reader until you can check your Manual.
 
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