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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I have an issue and I am desperate, my vehicle no longer can go above 10 MPH. Here is what happened.

Months ago, I got the CEL with the following Codes:

P0017: Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor B
P0018: Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor A
P0019: Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor B

After a lot of troubleshooting, I need to get my timing chains replaced. The vehicle was driveable and it didn't seem to be running very rough, and the labor was a little more than I could afford so I've been saving money. That isn't the main issue but I thought it was worth mentioning.

2/2/2018 - week I needed an oil change and I decided to take it to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change, (for the first time in my life, as I usually do them myself) they put and 3 days later (2/5/2018), I was driving home, and lost all power, and the Traction Control Light came on, and then it said, "Engine Power Reduced", "Service Stabilitrak" and I couldn't go more than 10MPH.

Once I got home, I did some Google Fu and everyone was saying to clean the throttle body, so I did that, and then drove fine until today, 2/10/2018. I thought maybe the throttle body was shot, so I purchased a new one, installed it, then was able to get 2 blocks down the road before it stopped again. I then borrowed my friends bluetooth code reader, and the following codes are now showing as well:

P0089: Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Performance
P228D: Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Exceeded Control Limits - Pressure Too High

Now I have no idea what to do. Any ideas would be great!
 

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To me, it sounds like you would need to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator, but I am not a Certified GM Tech. You may want to visit one. There seems to be a few on this forum that will probably chime in later with your magic answer.
 

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Since the high pressure fuel pump is driven by the ECM based on the CAM/Crank position, and since the ECM is saying your CAM/Crank correlations are “implausible”, I would guess that the fuel codes are following from the P0017/18/19 codes. Also, it appears the high-pressure fuel pump runs off Bank 1, and because of this, you won’t see those fuel codes whenever you also have the Bank 1 Correlation Code’s (P0016/P0017).

I would first make sure you’ve got the proper amount of oil in there. If you do, and the engine is not noisier than it used to be (possibly indicating an issue with the timing chain), then I believe some have tried replacing the CMP actuator solenoid valves, which control oil pressure to dynamically advance or retard the 4 camshafts. However, I would only be inclined to try this if I had *one* code of the 16/17/18/19 set. With multiple codes set, I would be thinking something common - like the Crankshaft Position Sensor, or if not that ... (unfortunately) the Timing Chain..
 

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ColtHero, sounds like you're taking some smart pills ! LOL
 

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But I can’t move a decimal the right number of places for a 1/10. LOL!

Anyway, this is a 2010 V6, which is the 3.0L - and that got my attention.

I think I’m going to have to start getting more vigilant about checking my oil level in my Nox. It’s *not* the same as it used to be: oil isn’t just for lubrication anymore, and plastic parts inside the engine make keeping the oil level within some unknown tolerance band more important than ever before. And as I drive my vehicles over 200,000 miles, they will start losing oil - either by burning it or leaking it. Add to that the extended 5,000 mile oil change intervals, and it seems like I will be seeing these codes myself sooner or later. Hoping that it’s just *one* code and maybe just a stuck actuator that I can easily replace (or even clean and reinstall).

And not that I pay attention to it (to this point, anyway), but I wonder if the OLM algorithm adjusts over time based on the odometer reading...
 

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But I can’t move a decimal the right number of places for a 1/10. LOL!

Anyway, this is a 2010 V6, which is the 3.0L - and that got my attention.

I think I’m going to have to start getting more vigilant about checking my oil level in my Nox.

And not that I pay attention to it (to this point, anyway), but I wonder if the OLM algorithm adjusts over time based on the odometer reading...
For you, if you check it once in 200K miles, that would be much more vigilant !

On the OLM vs miles, I highly doubt it. If it did, the guy with (supposedly - LOL) almost 300K miles, his would have him changing it every other day !
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So when I had valvoline change the oil they claimed that the engine required 6qts however whenever I've done it myself, I only need 5.3qts. I drained the oil today, and there was 6 qts in there. So I put new oil in to the amount that I normally put in when I change it, 5.3qts. Then cleared the codes, started it up, and the engine was a little rough and sputtered, but evened out. Then all those same codes come back! Really frustrating!!
 

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So when I had valvoline change the oil they claimed that the engine required 6qts however whenever I've done it myself, I only need 5.3qts. I drained the oil today, and there was 6 qts in there. So I put new oil in to the amount that I normally put in when I change it, 5.3qts. Then cleared the codes, started it up, and the engine was a little rough and sputtered, but evened out. Then all those same codes come back! Really frustrating!!
I think that 99% of the people on this forum would have been surprised if they did NOT come back. Having an extra qt. of oil is not very likely to send a CEL code. However, driving with the extra oil is not good for the engine - so you did the right thing, but for the wrong reason !
 

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sounds like to me your timing is off. I just replaced my engine due to the exact same codes. As mentioned previous, the codes for cam solenoids, fuel pump, etc are all related to your timing issue. I was running reduced power, all valves were bent, had a broken cam roller, stemming from the timing chain tensionor being broke. I suggest you pull your valve cover and you'll be able to tell if your chain has any slack in it or any other issues.
 

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The oil guy was right: the 3.0L V6 takes 6 quarts. And I don’t care which filter I use (and lately I’ve been using the small SuperTech filter) - it’s always 6 quarts.

If you’re really *not* getting a P0016 code, then maybe you could swap sensors and actuators with the “intake” CAM on Bank 2 and see if you get a P0016, but *not* a P0018. It *appears* these actuator solenoids are interchangeable, just oriented differently on install, but it would be advisable to verify this beforehand.

Really think it’s going to end up being your chain and plastic tensioner guides, but just trying to think of less intrusive things to try before going there...
 

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when I changed my 2010 3.0 I changed the filter and the oil.........put in 6 quarts and it was very close to the full mark.


my 2.4 with 275,000 takes 5 quarts.


I used to change oil and drive for 5000 miles but since all the hoopla I have been checking it about once a week. (every 1k )


its using a quart about every 2000 miles.


when we had a stockcar we would run 20w50 and a quart of stp.


that was an old engine......ford 390 turning 5500 to 6000 rpm.


was leading a race one time and the oil pressure went to zero with 2 laps to go.


it was a 1/2 mile track so that was 1 mile with no oil pressure and it didn't hurt the motor.


it twisted the oil pump drive shaft right off.


put a new pump and drive in it , looked for debris and went back racing the next week.


we don't know if we were lucky or the stp helped or what.........


we always ran this motor 1 quart over so it wouldn't starve for oil.


todays cars are a little tighter tolerences and may not tolerate extra oil.


the racing days were back in the seventies........
 

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STP may have helped keeping an oil film on the cylinder walls but I'm guessing you weren't running that 390 with a windage tray and being a quart over you may have been getting some splash lubrication on the crank and rod bearings that helped save the motor. Quart over on a circle track wet sump system with the centrifugal force sounds like a smart idea.
 

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STP may have helped keeping an oil film on the cylinder walls but I'm guessing you weren't running that 390 with a windage tray and being a quart over you may have been getting some splash lubrication on the crank and rod bearings that helped save the motor. Quart over on a circle track wet sump system with the centrifugal force sounds like a smart idea.
Cam, lifters, and rocker arms definitely benefited from the STP. They wouldn't have had any lubrication from crankcase without operating pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I talked to the dealer today, they confirm that its all timing chain related. I don't have the money to pay the dealer to do it, and I have access to a garage with a car lift and engine lift, and an experienced mechanic friend. The only thing I am looking for now is the service repair manual, like the Chilton or Haynes, to get the torque right on all the engine bolts. Does anyone know where I could find one of those?
 

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There’s a Haynes book for 2005 through 2012 Equinox, but I’d thumb through it before buying. One review said 90% was for the Gen-1 (pre-2010) Equinox.

Probably the best thing to do is sign up for a month subscription to AllData online. You’ll be able to find all those numbers with a quick search. And you’ll need the detailed procedures anyway to make sure you don’t miss any steps along the way.

As soon as you get that front cover off, remember to take some pictures or a video of the damage and post here...
 

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How many man-hrs did it take you, and how many will it take next time ?
 

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impressive on doing the chains yourself.

and having the lift!
 
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