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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
EDIT....Please note that the harnesses in the below photo are prototypes.All future harnesses will feature color coded wires for easy identification.I will replace the photo once I have a new kit built with the new wire colors.

These kits will work with the base 6 speaker or premium 8 speaker systems.I can make these on demand now.They are simple plug and go harness kits for people interested in adding aftermarket amplifiers,DSP's etc and would like to keep the stock head unit.

Each kit comes with two harnesses.One provides low level preouts for 4 channels(front and rear) and a switched 12v remote out.The other provides five speaker outs including front,rear and center channel for systems with the premium package.

They will come with a plug diagram to indicate which wire goes where.No need to splice into the factory wiring at all.Simply pull the plugs from the factory amplifier,insert into the new harnesses and run the wire to your new aftermarket gear.Speaker harnesses utilize 18awg wire and low level harness utilizes 24awg wire.

Note: It is recommended to use the front low level signals to maintain factory functions such as Bluetooth,chimes,blinkers,etc.For systems with the premium 8 speaker amplifier,using this kit will cut off the factory subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice. I see you finally got the parts in. Looks good.
Yep,finally got all the parts.Used my test plugs from the boneyard and everything works great.These will make life much easier for people wanting to upgrade their systems all around.Eliminates the need to run speaker wire to the doors and/or splice into the factory wiring for a signal,etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just ordered parts for furthering this project.There will be a number of different options available once I get the parts.Some examples will be.....

1. Adding component speakers in front
2. Adding a subwoofer amp and sub to the stock system
3. Adding an amp(s) for the front speakers and sub while using the stock amplifier on the rear door speakers for rear fill
4. Complete stock amplifier bypass with door chime sound level control as an option

Once the parts are in and I have the capability I'll make a thread here.Again my goal with this project is to make audio upgrade installs in these vehicles as painless as possible by completely eliminating the need to cut/splice into factory wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
These kits will work with 2016's as well and very possibly 2017's.

Just an FYI the test install this weekend was very successful.System sounded great with no noise problems.Only thing that was happening was a turn off pop because of the delay from the stock HU.However it was resolved by running the remote wire to a fuse in the interior panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
One thing I would like to mention about these bypass kits is that the ANC wires that are located in the speaker plug are missing so this should automatically bypass the ANC system.Another way to put it is that there will no longer be a signal being sent from the ANC module to the stock amplifier so its not possible for the system to work.
 

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I got my bypass harness yesterday, and a stock sub enclosure today to mod a JL 10w1v3 into. The sub is the first step, amp bypass will come sometime after that, but now that I have the bypass I just need to gather up the rest of the components I'm going to use.

John was great to deal with, he answered a few of my questions and concerns before I ordered. Connectors are very well built.

Once I get around to completing everything I'll be writing up a post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got my bypass harness yesterday, and a stock sub enclosure today to mod a JL 10w1v3 into. The sub is the first step, amp bypass will come sometime after that, but now that I have the bypass I just need to gather up the rest of the components I'm going to use.

John was great to deal with, he answered a few of my questions and concerns before I ordered. Connectors are very well built.

Once I get around to completing everything I'll be writing up a post.
Thanks Eric,curiously where did you get that stock sub enclosure from?Junkyard,Ebay?
 

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Man I thought I had this set to send me notifications of posts. I got the enclosure on ebay, $50 with factory sub, others were up over $100. The test fitting begins tonight.

....Hmmmm...I wonder if it's time to do another run of my modified boxes...I built 4, kept 1, but sold 3 a couple of years ago...


I presume you found my threat about modifying the stock box...it's not hard, but is time consuming to do it right and still look good...
 

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....Hmmmm...I wonder if it's time to do another run of my modified boxes...I built 4, kept 1, but sold 3 a couple of years ago...


I presume you found my threat about modifying the stock box...it's not hard, but is time consuming to do it right and still look good...
I did find your thread and used it, thanks for that by tree way. I did my face cut a bit deeper than yours trying to get more surface area for the front baffle, but it didn't really matter. But will still have to pivot the sub a bit to get enough "meat" of the wood for the very two side screws. That bracing in the box was no joke. Most everything is mocked up at this point, just need to mount the baffle and seal everything up. Was thinking about sealing with kitty hair bondo because I have it on hand. But caulk just seems so much easier. Lol. I took pics along most of the cutting process, but this is where it sits right now.
 

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I did find your thread and used it, thanks for that by tree way. I did my face cut a bit deeper than yours trying to get more surface area for the front baffle, but it didn't really matter. But will still have to pivot the sub a bit to get enough "meat" of the wood for the very two side screws. That bracing in the box was no joke. Most everything is mocked up at this point, just need to mount the baffle and seal everything up. Was thinking about sealing with kitty hair bondo because I have it on hand. But caulk just seems so much easier. Lol. I took pics along most of the cutting process, but this is where it sits right now.

It's looking good! Yeah, those ribs in the stock enclosure are no joke! I, too, was awfully close with the screws on L and R side of the sub. I've often wondered how one of Kicker's square Solo-Baric subs would work in the stock enclosure...a square 8" is supposed to have the same surface area as a round 10", so I'm curious if it would fit better...
 
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