GMC Terrain, Equinox, and SRX Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I went to open the rear lift gate today and it won't unlock. It worked fine yesterday, and all the rest of the doors work fine with the key fob and the door switch. Is there any way to access the lock mechanism from the inside, so I can at least get it open to find out what's wrong?

Thanx!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,211 Posts
jagged said:
I went to open the rear lift gate today and it won't unlock. It worked fine yesterday, and all the rest of the doors work fine with the key fob and the door switch. Is there any way to access the lock mechanism from the inside, so I can at least get it open to find out what's wrong?

Thanx!
Not sure about on the '08s, but on the 10s and newer, there is an access port that can be reached from the inside. It is a round plug in the middle of the door, and not far up. Not sure what do do once you pull off the plug, but there are instructions on this forum. May be worth a look-see, maybe they did it on the Gen 1s also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yes there is a plastic plug. You remove it and push on a little lever on the side of the actuator and the lift gate will open. I didn't realize that it was all electric. When you pull on the release above the licence plate, all it does is close a switch and energize the activator to open the gate. Now I'm going to have to find a wiring diagram to trace the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,211 Posts
Great - good luck with the circuit diagram.

Possibly just a blown fuse ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
jagged said:
Good luck with the circuit diagram? I'm sort of hoping that someone has it here?
I'd pop that back panel off and see how many wires are back there and if your getting power back there.
If you have a harbor frieght near you they sell trim tools pretty cheap that may save you a lot of cracked trim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Problem solved. It was the switch. After ripping everything apart, I was able to unclip the wires from the switch and using a jumper, the latch opens. I was able to remove the switch and take it apart, but I couldn't see anything obviously wrong except one terminal seemed to give me an intermittent resistance reading. I was just going to cut the terminal block off the top of the switch to mount a temporary micro switch to use until I get a replacement, when I discovered the terminal was corroded off inside the plastic, I'm enclosing a picture so you can see it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
jagged said:
Problem solved. It was the switch. After ripping everything apart, I was able to unclip the wires from the switch and using a jumper, the latch opens. I was able to remove the switch and take it apart, but I couldn't see anything obviously wrong except one terminal seemed to give me an intermittent resistance reading. I was just going to cut the terminal block off the top of the switch to mount a temporary micro switch to use until I get a replacement, when I discovered the terminal was corroded off inside the plastic, I'm enclosing a picture so you can see it.
Glad you found the problem Is the switch corroded or the connector to it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
In the picture, you are looking at the connector that was part of the switch. I broke it off so I could use it to connect the temporary micro switch. If you look at the arrow, it points to the corroded area that was hidden underneath the plastic and was revealed after I broke it apart. I was able to cut away enough plastic around the corroded area to get down to good copper to solder a wire to it. There was about 1/8" of green corrosion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,271 Posts
jagged said:
In the picture, you are looking at the connector that was part of the switch. I broke it off so I could use it to connect the temporary micro switch. If you look at the arrow, it points to the corroded area that was hidden underneath the plastic and was revealed after I broke it apart. I was able to cut away enough plastic around the corroded area to get down to good copper to solder a wire to it. There was about 1/8" of green corrosion.
wonder how the moisture got in there to corrode it? . Again, glad you got an inexpensive fix
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I don't know how the moisture got in there, everything looks dry and corrosion free throughout the rest of the door. Could be the constant rotten snow we are getting almost every day, since the end of Nov.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Problem solved. It was the switch. After ripping everything apart, I was able to unclip the wires from the switch and using a jumper, the latch opens. I was able to remove the switch and take it apart, but I couldn't see anything obviously wrong except one terminal seemed to give me an intermittent resistance reading. I was just going to cut the terminal block off the top of the switch to mount a temporary micro switch to use until I get a replacement, when I discovered the terminal was corroded off inside the plastic, I'm enclosing a picture so you can see it.

What did you rip apart? The back door? I'm having the same issue and trying to figure out where I need to look, I've tried the fuses but starting to think this may be the same issue for me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,334 Posts
What did you rip apart? The back door? I'm having the same issue and trying to figure out where I need to look, I've tried the fuses but starting to think this may be the same issue for me?
GM had a problem with these exterior lift gate switches corroding.
Several years ago they updated the replacement switches with a more robust design, problem solved.
The interior trim on the liftgate must be removed to access the switch for replacement.

What year and model do you have?
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top