[unt0uchable]

I recently purchased a used 2005 Equinox and it started giving me some troubles over the last couple of days. I'm very mechanically inclined and I do all of the maintenance and mechanical work on all of my own vehicles. The one in questions is my girlfriends daily so I need to get this right. After short trips and hot starts, it has trouble starting. Today, she tried starting it after a 40 minute break and it took 5 separate cranks to get it going and after was running the RPM's would dip and come back up at around 1000 and dip again until it finally evened out. It also smelled like gas pretty badly for the entire ride home (about 5 miles). I took the car to go get dinner tonight and it did the same thing to me but not as bad. It only took a second time to start for me but I was only out of the car for less than 5 minutes but again, it smelled like gas bad. Any help would be great. I'm just trying to fix it so it runs right. Thanks in advanced.

-David

 

[gar187er]

smells like gas would lead me to check for spark......

the 1st gen has a failsafe for starting....if it doesnt start initially the ecu will continue to crank the engine......

i have this happen when running around town with frequent stops.....


copy of service bulletin:

Date: August 02, 2007

INFORMATION

Subject:
Starter Cranks After Key Is Released (Normal Condition)

Models:
2003-2008 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn)
2003-2008 HUMMER H2, H3
2005-2008 Saab 9-7X

Attention: This bulletin ONLY applies to vehicles with PCM/ECM controlled starters.

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-03-001C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).

Some customers may comment that the engine starter will continue to run after the key is released.

For the 2003 through 2008 model years, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the starter relay based on input from the key switch. When the ignition switch is held in the start position for 0.4 seconds, the PCM/ECM start timer is activated. Once the start timer is activated, the PCM/ECM will continue to crank the starter until either the engine starts or a no start time limit is reached.

Occasionally, the fuel pump module will take one or two seconds to build fuel pressure. Often this will occur after the vehicle sits overnight. During some vehicle starts, the customer may release the ignition switch key before the engine actually starts. When this occurs, the engine will then continue to crank until the engine starts or the no start time limit is reached.

This is a normal condition and no repairs should be attempted for this condition.

 

[unt0uchable]

Thanks for posting that bulletin. I will be replacing the spark plugs/wires and the air filter in the next two weeks. I hope this helps the cranking issue which should in turn solve the fuel smell issue. I've got a feeling none of the three previous owners have touched the ignition parts so that will be my first step. I will also be replacing the EGR since I noticed a small leak when I was inspecting under the hood while it was running today. Any other TSB's that may help are much appreciated! Thanks for the prompt reply.

-David

 

[robauto]

I have an 05 too with 85k, bought it used and had it for about 3 years, and has done the same thing. I also have an 05 buick terraza original owner, with 130k on it.

I have had the buick back under warranty for this condition and they never could find anything. Also had to a local mechanic, but he could not guarantee a fix, he just wanted to start replacing things.

It is a known problem on some GMs and the solution is to apply the gas pedal as your cranking if the car is warm and has been sitting for under an hour. Just a touch, not alot.

I have done this for a few years now and got used to it.

I like both cars and hitting the pedal during the start is a nuisance that I can live with, not happy about it though

 

[unt0uchable]

I started doing the gas pedal thing but it seems to only work when it wants to, and quite frankly, my girlfriend (its her daily) is getting sick of it not starting for her. After 5 or 6 cranks (and continuous cranking) it just hardly seems worth it. I'm shocked that there is no fix for this....Thanks for the input though guys.

 

[mvbighead]

I realize the posts here were from over a year ago, but I am now dealing with exactly the same thing. 2005 Equinox, 118k miles, warm start problems.

I got what I feel was good deal on the vehicle, and this is the one problem that seems to be affecting it right now. Of course, we didn't notice this at purchase because we started it and test drove it when the engine was cold. But it seems that any time I run an errand, go to lunch, whatever, it takes a couple of different crank cycles to get it to start.

At this point, from perusing several forums, it seems the following are potential problems/fixes:

Bad check valve in fuel pump. (Doesn't fit op's description of smelling like fuel, however.) The idea being that the check valve doesn't keep fuel from leaving the fuel line, and thus when you try to start, the fuel line is dry. I don't think this is likely, as the vehicle starts just fine when cold. Solution - Either new fuel pump or add an in-line fuel check valve.

Dirty air intake in the MAF. One guy even mentioned modifying his MAF which he claims solved the issue. I don't think I'll be doing that, but I will be cleaning the intake soon to see if that helps.

Bad spark. I am not sure how plausible this is, but as plugs are cheap, I'll be replacing them at my convenience.

I apologize for resurrecting an old thread, but as my symptoms are identical, I figured to add to the OP's case and see if anyone has better info on the subject.

 

[Terra-Nox]

Hhmm which engine is this 3.4 ?

 

[mvbighead]

Yep, the 3.4.

 

[RIT333]

Bad spark. I am not sure how plausible this is, but as plugs are cheap, I'll be replacing them at my convenience.

I agree about plugs being cheap. but it seems as if a car is harder to start when cold, than when hot. So, your plugs work fine under a tougher starting condition, so I am anticipating that the plugs will not cure your problem - but good luck.

Some of my thoughts are :

IACV (Idle air control valve) - don't know exactly what/when it does its thing but seems like a posibility.

Also, they is a "temperature sensor" that tell the computer when the engine is cold and starts with a richer mixture. If yours sensor is bad, such that is always thinks the car is cold, it may be too rich when the car is warm. Just a thought

I think cleaning the MAF Sensor may help this issue. If not, is is always a good thing to do as preventative maintenance.

Good luck, and keep us posted !

 

[Terra-Nox]

Yep, the 3.4.

I had two vehicles (01's) with the 3.4 only (one for the last year). Both had hot start problem on occasion, as when with engine warmed up to operating temp and you stop for short time (like filling up at gas station) then trying to start. I have seen quite a few others with the problem over the years and NEVER have seen a real solution for it. The best way I have gotten around it is to hold key in start position the second time until it starts (much longer then usual, about the max time you should hold it there). Also found the more times you try to start it, the harder it is.

 

[mvbighead]

I had two vehicles (01's) with the 3.4 only (one for the last year). Both had hot start problem on occasion, as when with engine warmed up to operating temp and you stop for short time (like filling up at gas station) then trying to start. I have seen quite a few others with the problem over the years and NEVER have seen a real solution for it. The best way I have gotten around it is to hold key in start position the second time until it starts (much longer then usual, about the max time you should hold it there). Also found the more times you try to start it, the harder it is.

Well, I've been driving it a while, and the problem seemed to be gone for a while, but then resurfaced yesterday. For me, holding the gas pedal down on the next attempt seems to do the trick in getting her fired up.

I am starting to lean towards the temp sensor idea causing either too rich or lean of a mixture.

I did start working on plugs, but getting to the back was nearly impossible. I ended up giving up and put the old plugs back in the front. I may re-visit later, but at the time I had a fairly deep cut on my finger and wedging my hand around the motor was not a fun deal.

Biggest problem right now is that this happens so sporadically, that trying to recreate the problem has been successful about 10% of the time, and generally no where that I have tools with which to start digging. Sigh.

 

[robauto]

cleaning the throttle body regularly seems to have resolved my warm/hot start problem. Use throttle body cleaner and wipe. Do not use carb cleaner.