2.4l New Chains and getting P0014.

Genuine GM solenoid? Aftermarket ones are problematic.
Oil / filter change is a must after engine surgery.

did you replace the actuator gear? if not that could be your issue as well as what repairman54 stated

Yup - Complete oil change and filter (I am rather particular on that). I checked the port for the solenoids to be sure they were clear of any debris. I have been using Dorman Solenoids. Is there a way to actually test the solenoid itself? I did not change the phaser (actuator gear?) this time. I was wondering if that could be the issue as well. If it could be, is there a way to change that without removal of the lower cover?

you could try a gm solenoid first as the aftermarket ones dont hold up well. if that doesnt work then change the actuator. you would need special tools to change the actuator without taking the front cover off

I would have hoped the solenoid was not bad off the shelf, but who knows. If I had that same code before the tear down, replaced the solenoid with the new one and still having issues, I am leaning to the actuator. With this issue, is there any real concern with the assembly timing being off (as in I did it wrong) versus one of the issues above? It seems to run okay (much quieter) but just a little rough. If I go with the actuator, is it a lot to use the required tools to change it (cant seem to find a video on that yet) or just as easy to take the front cover back off?

I would take the cover back off and replace the actuator and verify your timing marks.

Not a mechanic, but I still say ... when someone pulls out a Plastic Guide with a large percentage of it missing ... where does all that plastic go? It disappears into the Engine. Maybe some of it gets trapped out by the Filter, or the Solenoid screens ... but how do you know you have a "clean" system, with no tiny fragments "hanging out", waiting to stop up tiny Oil passages or ports (even after replacing Solenoids, Phasers, and Tensioners). I've only ever done it once in my life, but I wonder if this situation calls for running one of those internal Engine cleaners through the system ... because it would liquefy all the Oil, making it harder for this "plastic shrapnel" to hang on ... wherever it is.

Not recommending these products ... but this is kind of what I had in mind:


.... or this:


.... or this:


.... or this:

i personally have seen the majority of the debris go to the oil pan and to the oil pickup screen.i personally would not use any oil cleaners but that's just a personal preference.just like trans fluid cleaners,the customer comes in for a flush and after using the cleaner and then conditioner they come back with a converter shuttering. at the most i'd say pull the pan after any guide/chain issue and remove the broken pieces under the screen,clean it out and reassemble.

This time, the guide that broke had only a small piece of it off and was readily setting under the cover. I do plan to drop the pan and clean it out again thoroughly. Have it torn down to putting on the new actuator, but of course, no new torque to yield bolts locally, but need one for the other actuator......Should be a quick assembly after that arrives. Appreciate the feedback as I am no mechanic!

Enoob said:

I had the black timing chain guide broken at the top end. Same as a few years ago.

Click to expand...

This seems to be trying to tell you something, but I don't know what .. maybe that the Engine is chronically running low on Oil ... even just a little bit (it might not take much to destroy these Plastic Guides)?

Did you buy this vehicle brand new, or 2nd (or 3rd) hand ... and do you know if it ever got the updated Piston Rings?