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Detonation is driven by cylinder pressure and the temperature of the charge in the cylinder. Yes, the charge picks up heat from the cylinder head, piston crown, valves, etc. But starting with a colder intake air temp is a big deal. In my experience cold air temps raise density by a few percent at best, and raising air temp is a much larger driver. An engine that might be knock proof at 60F on the dyno might rattle plenty plenty hard of the room is raised to 90F, running the same engine, oil, and spark plug temps. In testing as low as -30F and as high as 122F I've never seen detonation because of air temps being too low. I've seen plenty from it getting too high.



There's a reason an engine can take a lot more boost when intake temps are kept in check. And even naturally aspirated engines typically have a spark table that yanks timing as intake temps rise.
 

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Driving with cruise control on going up and down hills is a recipe for engine knock . . . . been that way for years.
Cruise Control does not have the ability to anticipate an upcoming hill and start to apply a bit more pedal or even downshift till after it's already bogging down and knock occurs.

Many have found it is best to forget use of cruise control in hilly road conditions and also in heavy traffic where speeds may increase and decrease repeatedly.

Rather than rely on cruise control, it is best to avoid lugging and engine knock by intelligent use of the gas pedal and transmission by the driver. Agree that use of premium fuel would help, but so would manual control and keeping engine RPM up and proper gear selection for a given load condition.

Today's engine electronic timing, cam phasing and transmission control are designed for and to meet EPA standards and goals. They are not usually the best for optimum healthy engine and vehicle operation. Nothing too much new there.
 
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I recently sent an email to Trifecta asking for 2 specific changes:

1) Get rid of the auto stop (they already provide)
2) Change the OEM shift points so my engine RPM's never dip below 1500 RPM'a at steady cruise

I'm not interested in squeezing any additional power out of my 2.0 just looking for reliability and to rid the EPA save a penny and than later spend 10 time$ more for new drive train component$.

I received an email back from Trifecta asking me for details....HUH? What did I leave out or need to add???
 

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I was not talking about a V6. . . not related to this engine and topic. Of course I was talking about the 2.4L but also applies to any engine or vehicles as well under the right circumstances of load.

Preaching to the choir. . . The 2.4L is a problematic engine. The reason why I did research back in 2014 and bought a 3.6L V6.

Since the topic is about the 2.4L engine. . . . that is/was my reference to engine knock in that case.

Of course downshifting would help. . I also said as much. Intelligent use of the gas pedal and transmission as I said.


I have owned over 40 vehicles over the years with 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines. Enough said.


BTW. .. . nothing you've said is new here in this forum. Others have observed and seen the same. Including KR even occurring in the V6 under low RPM high load conditions. It happens in a lot of modern cars.

Good to point it out again though.
 

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I never said you were talking about the V6. Please don't attribute words I did not say. Neither is the 1.3l turbo in your Sonic the same engine.

A few members posted some very good information in this thread and based on your advice I shared my results and gave my recommendations for the 2.4L NA Ecotec, seeing there was not much info in past years about KR for this engine. I disagree there is nothing new I added. Again that is your opinion, but it won't stop me from contributing.

Um. . the Chevrolet Sonic came with either a 1.8L NA engine or the older 1.4L turbo engine like the original Chevy Cruise. The 1.3L turbo is a new arrival in the U.S for the Spark and now Buick Encore GTX along with a 1.2L turbo as well.
Not sure why you are bringing it up and talking about the 1.3L not being the "same"? Never talked about it or ever said it was. Similar to you mentioning V6 engines in a previous post which is why I talked about them that you objected to.

Getting off topic with too many things now. .

Am not disagreeing with your observations over all. Just that there are glaring omissions of the 2.4L GDI design faults.

The previous 2.4L engine before it was adapted to GDI was fine with not even PCV freeze ups or main seal blow out like in the GDI version.
We still have a 2009 Saturn Aura with the non GDI 2.4L running well and +130,000 miles.
 

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Correction, that was the 1.8l Sonic of yours, which is not a 2.0l Turbo which the thread was about.

Dont lecture others about discussing a different engine when you do the same and then encourage others to do their own testing based on their own car and driving habits. When someone does, you then talk down and minimize others contributions and observations.

There you go again going off topic, whining about design faults, PCV systems, and GDI. What does that have to do with Octane rating, preventing engine knock, on the 2.0T or the information I shared. Dude, you are really obsessed with an engine you never owned.

There are always a few people like you in every forum. You have shown your true colors early on, thanks.

And what I observe about you is that you refuse to admit when you error in statements (about the Sonic engine), twist and reinterpret what others have really said, and do not respect other whose experience and opinion differs from yours.

Yet. . . expect others to accept any and all of yours.

Have a good day.
 

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Driving with cruise control on going up and down hills is a recipe for engine knock . . . . been that way for years.
Cruise Control does not have the ability to anticipate an upcoming hill and start to apply a bit more pedal or even downshift till after it's already bogging down and knock occurs.

Many have found it is best to forget use of cruise control in hilly road conditions and also in heavy traffic where speeds may increase and decrease repeatedly.

Rather than rely on cruise control, it is best to avoid lugging and engine knock by intelligent use of the gas pedal and transmission by the driver. Agree that use of premium fuel would help, but so would manual control and keeping engine RPM up and proper gear selection for a given load condition.

Today's engine electronic timing, cam phasing and transmission control are designed for and to meet EPA standards and goals. They are not usually the best for optimum healthy engine and vehicle operation. Nothing too much new there.
You are completely mistaken here. Cruise control is very well integrated into the car now and has been for over 10 years. It works with the computer system to avoid knock and bogging down. I tow with cruise on and it adjust fine for hill and up and down and control speed. I've used cruise for up down road conditions for many years and never had a issue and today's cars even do a better job at it. With adaptice cruise control everything you stated is wrong.

I also get much better mileage with cruise control.
 

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You are completely mistaken here. Cruise control is very well integrated into the car now and has been for over 10 years. It works with the computer system to avoid knock and bogging down. I tow with cruise on and it adjust fine for hill and up and down and control speed. I've used cruise for up down road conditions for many years and never had a issue and today's cars even do a better job at it. With adaptice cruise control everything you stated is wrong.

I also get much better mileage with cruise control.

Yes. . adaptive cruise control works mainly to keep a distance from cars in front of you to maintain a safe following distance. The vehicles being discussed (in those few posts) were 2nd generation and earlier Equinox and others which had standard stepper motor cruise control with road speed feedback that would only start to respond when a drop in road speed was sensed.
And. . . chances are, the engine is doing knock retard and you would never know it unless connected up to an ODB II scanner and monitoring it.

Only some cars had adaptive cruise control 10 years ago if that. Certainly not many GM cars.


Adaptive Cruise works as in this link attached.

https://my.chevrolet.com/how-to-support/safety/adaptive-cruise-control
 

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There you go again going off topic, whining about design faults, PCV systems, and GDI. What does that have to do with Octane rating, preventing engine knock, on the 2.0T or the information I shared..

I did not introduce discussion off topic about the 2.4L engine.


See below.


Over the past few months I have been troubleshooting engine lugging issue even on small hills with a 2.4l and 6 speed auto.
 

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Why even bring up the Sonic engine at all? More off topic instigation ,

Just can't quit . . SMH
 

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I corrected my statements twice, suggest you go back and read it. God forbid if I say 1.3L and instead of 1.8L. The sky is falling.

Twist, reinterpret, disrespect.... whatever. I suspect you do this all the time, and then accuse others. Classic.

Do everyone a favor and just ignore my posts. I will happily do the same for you.
Yes. . adaptive cruise control works mainly to keep a distance from cars in front of you to maintain a safe following distance. The vehicles being discussed (in those few posts) were 2nd generation and earlier Equinox and others which had standard stepper motor cruise control with road speed feedback that would only start to respond when a drop in road speed was sensed.
And. . . chances are, the engine is doing knock retard and you would never know it unless connected up to an ODB II scanner and monitoring it.

Only some cars had adaptive cruise control 10 years ago if that. Certainly not many GM cars.


Adaptive Cruise works as in this link attached.

https://my.chevrolet.com/how-to-support/safety/adaptive-cruise-control
So basically what all cars do and have been doing for years with Anti-knock. You seem to think cars over 20 years ago with Cruise couldn't be ok with anti knock or something. I know how adaptive cruise and all cruise control works. I have it in my 2019 Terrain and I have had cruise in all my cars and they work fine. The big difference today is they can control down hill speed even with out Adaptive cruise control. Knock on most modern engines is not a problem unless you are using the wrong fuel or something is not right with the emmision control systems.
 

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So basically what all cars do and have been doing for years with Anti-knock. You seem to think cars over 20 years ago with Cruise couldn't be ok with anti knock or something. I know how adaptive cruise and all cruise control works. I have it in my 2019 Terrain and I have had cruise in all my cars and they work fine. The big difference today is they can control down hill speed even with out Adaptive cruise control. Knock on most modern engines is not a problem unless you are using the wrong fuel or something is not right with the emmision control systems.

well. . not wanting to get complicated here and now off topic again.
Cruise Control is one thing and engine knock another. I never said cars with Cruise Control couldn't be "OK". It's just that use of any Cruise Control (when going up hills) will cause the ECM to retard timing to control engine knock. That has consequence in engine performance and MPG if used for miles while going up/down steep hills or long grades. That is why I said : " Driving with cruise control on going up and down hills is a recipe for engine knock."

Engine Knock is not desirable whether engine electronic control can compensate for it or not. It hampers optimum performance.

I agree that knock is not a problem for the most part since the ECM detects it and responds with retarding the timing so that the engine isn't damaged, right? But it will cause more fuel use to compensate for the loss of power while operating with retarded timing. So downshifting one or two lower gears helps also under those conditions also.

If you are ok using Cruise Control up and down hills I have no problem with it. It's a choice. But the engine control module will retard timing since it also is trying to keep engine RPM low. . . until it can't and has to down shift.

I have had cruise control in most of my cars and trucks since the late 1970s. Some 40 vehicles to date.
 

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I do have some concerns about gas diluted oil.. How often are you guys changing your oil? My first oil change was done at 3,000mi. I think I'll be changing it myself from now on. (can't trust dealer to be use full synthetic). I'm going to change it when the oil life monitor gets down to 20% 2019 Denali
 

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I do have some concerns about gas diluted oil.. How often are you guys changing your oil? My first oil change was done at 3,000mi. I think I'll be changing it myself from now on. (can't trust dealer to be use full synthetic). I'm going to change it when the oil life monitor gets down to 20% 2019 Denali
On all of my GM vehicles, I'm now comfortable ignoring the OLM, and changing oil/filter at 5,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first.

My filters are the OEM, AC Delco; my oil, Mobil1, Extended Performance, 5W-30.

.
 

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I do have some concerns about gas diluted oil.. How often are you guys changing your oil? My first oil change was done at 3,000mi. I think I'll be changing it myself from now on. (can't trust dealer to be use full synthetic). I'm going to change it when the oil life monitor gets down to 20% 2019 Denali
I always look at the oil monitor and see where it's at, but in the end I prefer to change the oil every 4K to 5K miles depending on the time of year.

I do like to have fresh oil in late September and then change it again in later January or early February because of cold starts and higher oil contamination.

So from September to late March I usually had two oil changes always with a good quality Dexos certified full synthetic oil . . . usually Pennzoil.
 

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I always look at the oil monitor and see where it's at, but in the end I prefer to change the oil every 4K to 5K miles depending on the time of year.

I do like to have fresh oil in late September and then change it again in later January or early February because of cold starts and oil higher oil contamination.

So from September to late March I usually had two oil changes always with a good quality Dexos certified full synthetic oil . . . usually Pennzoil.
Yes, I also take into consideration the seasonal changes and may do an additional service based on winter driving conditions vs just the mileage accumulated.

Good point to consider, as JayTee2014 suggests; climactic changes in specific regions may dictate more frequent service intervals.

.
 

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I wanted to use mobil 1 but didn't see "dexos 1 Gen 2" on the label. I bought valvoline full synthetic with the dexos cert on the front.. Not saying the mobil 1 doesn't have it, i just didn't see it on the jug or on Castrol full synth for that matter. I'd need a magnifying glass to read all the certs on the back of the jugs. I'm betting my dealer uses a synthetic blend from a 50 gallon bulk container but of course I was told it was full synth when I asked. I just don't trust the dealer, any dealer. Good advice about more frequent changes in winter months. I will hit 12 mo. before I hit 20% on the OLM. Does the 2.0 AWD really hold six quarts as per the manual? I think I'm going to need a larger drain pan! Not complaining though, it should take longer to dilute 6 quarts than the FWD version's 5 quarts.. I'm running nothing but premium fuel and still have to wipe the soot off the chrome exhaust tips after every trip.
 

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I wanted to use mobil 1 but didn't see "dexos 1 Gen 2" on the label. I bought valvoline full synthetic with the dexos cert on the front.. Not saying the mobil 1 doesn't have it, i just didn't see it on the jug or on Castrol full synth for that matter. I'd need a magnifying glass to read all the certs on the back of the jugs. I'm betting my dealer uses a synthetic blend from a 50 gallon bulk container but of course I was told it was full synth when I asked. I just don't trust the dealer, any dealer. Good advice about more frequent changes in winter months. I will hit 12 mo. before I hit 20% on the OLM. Does the 2.0 AWD really hold six quarts as per the manual? I think I'm going to need a larger drain pan! Not complaining though, it should take longer to dilute 6 quarts than the FWD version's 5 quarts.. I'm running nothing but premium fuel and still have to wipe the soot off the chrome exhaust tips after every trip.

it really does hold 6 quarts


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I do have some concerns about gas diluted oil.. How often are you guys changing your oil? My first oil change was done at 3,000mi. I think I'll be changing it myself from now on. (can't trust dealer to be use full synthetic). I'm going to change it when the oil life monitor gets down to 20% 2019 Denali

how many miles are you at at 20% My equinox is always between 23-28% at 5,000 depending on how much idle and warmup time it has. that’s where i always change it. i see you said you’ll make it 12 months before you get to 20% i wish i could say the same... i do at least 4 oil changes in that time lol As a side note apparently people have got 7500-8000 miles before the OLM gets to 0% and i just don’t feel comfortable going that long, especially on a turbo motor. oil is cheap compared to a turbo or a motor.


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Tic, oil analysis will tell definitively the condition of the oil and the engine and when to change your oil. TestOil has the best tests kits for the price, and includes a precise fuel dilution test, particle count for soot/oil cleanliness along with the standard battery of test. For $40 dollars it is worth. I have used BlackStone and Oil Analyzers. After a few intervals and tests, it will give you a good feel for your engine and comparison to the OLM.

www.testoil.com
I didn't see a test kit for $40. Can you provide a link for this?
 
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