|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-22-2019 10:43 AM|
|repairman54||Batteries are hit / miss. My '11 Tahoe OE AGM came out at 7rs old as I didn't trust it for those -25 starts it sees when I'm up snowmobiling. It's on a maintainer when parked and now that it's out of the truck and on a maintainer it jumped my dead '16 'nox the other day just fine. WTF nox OEM was only 3 yr. old. Old Tahoe battery saw camper duty this summer also. That must be a good battery LOL|
|12-21-2019 11:54 AM|
Originally Posted by Colt Hero View Post
I agree. I usually replace a battery up here after +4 years or right around 5. I've had batteries die on me suddenly. One time, right at a gas station and couldn't start after filling up. Wouldn't even crank and the battery was just a month over 5 years old. and it was mid Fall and still +40F.
So, since then (1981) . . I replace the battery just before or at the 5 year mark.
I suspect what kills them more in cold weather is the cold starts, more starter current draw in thick oil, short trips and cold batteries don't charge well with cold chemical electrolyte in them. Takes awhile for the molecules to warm up and do the change to a charged condition, etc.
|12-21-2019 11:32 AM|
Originally Posted by repairman54 View Post
Now *that’s* highly unusual for me. I usually get 5 years+, though ... in the heat of the Carolinas. Up in New England, I don’t think I got past 4 years most of the time. They say extreme heat AND cold kill batteries, but my data say extreme *cold* kills them more.
BTW: It was an Advance Auto “Silver” Line battery (their mid-grade level). Probably just got lucky. Didn’t even buy another one for the replacement. Just went to Walmart for one of those EverStart Maxx batteries. I’ve had one of those in my Nox for around 4 years now...
|12-21-2019 09:39 AM|
|repairman54||I just had to change the battery in my '16 . You have been charging the battery, now it's time to replace it. I was not happy the OEM battery only lasted 3 yrs. myself.|
|12-20-2019 01:01 PM|
I would look at the starter/solenoid too. If no cranking at all starter could be bad, or if cranking but slow could be battery. Also in fuse box #67 micro relay is for starter and #68 micro relay is for cranking/starting could be sticking open intermittently.
Sorry if not completely understanding your problem but would check things before going to stealership.
|12-14-2019 08:55 AM|
Originally Posted by thyman_92 View Post
Sounds like either your new battery or new alternator is bad.
|12-14-2019 08:24 AM|
If you don't have a multi-meter to check for a draw, charge the battery up to full again and unhook the negative post.
Wait a few hours like before, hook the negative back up and try to crank.
If it doesn't, you most likely have a bad battery. Possibly a short inside or a bad cell that the cheap parts store tester can't pick up.
If it does then something is draining the battery and you will need help finding it.
|12-14-2019 06:33 AM|
|thyman_92||I apologize. It would not crank after I replaced the alternator and charged the battery. I drove it home, let it sit for approximately 2 hours and tried to crank it and it would not.|
|12-13-2019 09:35 AM|
Avoid the dealership, find yourself a local mechanic
Also don't forget to check your oil levels, at least every other gas tank fill
|12-13-2019 08:09 AM|
After you put in the alternator and battery, are you still have issues ? If not, then why go see the dealer ? If you are, it could be a parasitic load that is draining the battery. You may have to remove fuses one-by-one to figure out which electrical circuit has a problem.
It depends on your expertise and amount of spare cash you have to decide if a visit to the dealer is necessary. Electrical problems can be open-ended, and may cost more than the $200 that gets you in the door.
Good luck, and report back.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|