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Thread: Rear Brake and Rotor Replacement for 2018 Terrain Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-24-2019 11:41 PM
garbec01 The rings/grooves on the rotors shouldn't affect the braking safety or performance as long as the pads aren't sticking in the caliper and have adequate thickness.

I understand it looks bad and obviously it shouldn't have rings or grooves; just stating it's not a safety or performance concern.

.
10-24-2019 08:16 PM
mcg75
Quote:
Originally Posted by twiseguy View Post
We just bought a 2018 LT with 19000 miles and it has those "rings" on both rear rotors. The dealer checked them out, said there was plenty of pad, rotor, etc. and told me it just needed to be driven some to get the rust out. Doesn't explain the rings, though.
That will not happen.

When I serviced the rear brakes this spring, nothing was sticking so I sanded the pads flat thinking it might help with the rings. It did not.

From what I'm seeing, it's nothing to really worry about. The brakes still work fine.
10-24-2019 06:44 PM
larrywal That is a new dealer story.....
10-24-2019 05:09 PM
twiseguy We just bought a 2018 LT with 19000 miles and it has those "rings" on both rear rotors. The dealer checked them out, said there was plenty of pad, rotor, etc. and told me it just needed to be driven some to get the rust out. Doesn't explain the rings, though.
10-24-2019 11:20 AM
RandiRN
Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbansuburban View Post
I thought I would share the replacement method for the 18/19 Terrain/Nox rear Rotors and Pads.

The vehicle has just over 30 thousand KM or 18 Thousand miles which is not a lot for rear brake replacement. About 3k km ago, I noticed that the rear rotors had 3 concentric rings grooved into them.
As I was changing the vehicle over to snows I figured I would change them out. I had already been to the dealer and all they were going to do was machine the rotors and I would have to pay for the pads and spring clips, approx. 600 dollars parts and labour and because of the strike I would need to wait a month or so. So I told them politely to Go Forth and Multiply and then left.

I picked up a set of Raybestos rust free rotors and ceramic pads for about 75 dollars all in.

The fun now begins. You need the following to do this job. For the caliper slides a 13 mm socket and a 18mm thin wrench to put on the flat as you turn the 13 mm bolt. Unlike some vehicles there is no 'hinge' so both 13mm bolts have to come out. You have to move the caliper around the lower control arm as the actuator motor for the parking brake is attached as well as its connector.

The Caliper bracket is a bear to do on the ground. They are 18mm bolts that are very long and will take many turns to remove. Leave which one you did first in very loosely otherwise the bracket is going to move a lot when you are trying to remove the other one. Its best to use a 12 point socket and a breaker bar to get things started. There is not a lot of room to move that breaker bar.
On install later it will need to be torqued to 77 ft pounds. There is no room for an impact or small impact to fit.

Once you have removed the Caliper bracket, then take a T30 Torx and insert into the screw on the rotor. Once you get this off, the rotor then comes off.

Clean around the hub, so no runout can occur and then remove the old clips from the caliper bracket and insert new grease with proper lube slightly and put back onto the vehicle in the reverse order. The inboard pad has the squeal clip and it faces down. The pads are shimmed and you may have to remove a layer of shims to get the caliper to fit back over the pads.

Now for the good news. The Caliper does not need to be retracted as long as the parking brake is not set. The piston on the caliper does have a couple of slots in it to twist back into the bore but you need to remove the actuator for that and it only has two bolts that hold it in.

Once you have finished and installed the tire then don't forget to pump the brakes with the engine off to obtain a firm pedal and then engage the parking brake and then release. Viola you now have new pads and rotors. Please take all due care when jacking the vehicle and have a stand under when working as you may need to slide under the rear to see that bottom caliper bolt.

Happy repairing.
My 2012 SLT-1 AWD needed new brakes at 25k miles. I purchased Disc Italia drilled & slotted rotors, kevlar pads to replace the factory units. The difference in stopping distance is amazing!! This was the 2nd vehicle I put these brakes on. I also put them on my 2015 Outback.
10-18-2019 12:13 AM
Enigma
Quote:
Originally Posted by SBUBandit View Post
Since those grooves are raised on the rotor, I wonder if a rock or something got in there and took a little chunk out of a pad to start the whole thing

Was thinking something similar... Weird thing.
10-17-2019 10:02 PM
SBUBandit Since those grooves are raised on the rotor, I wonder if a rock or something got in there and took a little chunk out of a pad to start the whole thing
10-17-2019 09:04 PM
kingstonian
Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbansuburban View Post
So I told them politely to Go Forth and Multiply and then left.

I do like this quote .. Can be very fitting at times.
10-17-2019 02:13 PM
Urbansuburban Thanks for the comments, the strange thing about these rotors are that the rings are raised on the rotor and are perfect circles. The pads have the same grooves worn in them to match. I can post pics if I don't have to create an account at photobucket or something. The other thing about these pads were they had tons of life left on them and should have gone as the others have said 100k at least. The new rotors are ceramic coated for rust protection so we will see how long they really last in our salt and that crappy brine they put on the road.
10-17-2019 12:29 AM
tic Just 3,600mi. on our 19' terrain and have the ring on the left rear rotor.
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