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  Topic Review (Newest First)
10-17-2019 05:12 PM
afterhoursfab Anything failing under 100k is too soon in my opinion. Yours went out at 56k, mine at 70k. Get recommendations from friends for an independant shop, it should be far cheaper than the dealership. Tip: don't tell the shop what the dealership wanted to charge you! Still expect to spend at least $2000 tho 😕
10-17-2019 11:02 AM
DebbieR Thank you so much!! The 'too early to happen' seems to be a running answer from all around. The dealer actually put in paperwork to get some help from GM...it was declined. But they gave me the contact info for me to complain about it myself. Which I intend to do.

Thanks again for your reply...have a great day!
10-16-2019 10:19 PM
RIT333 Too early to happen, but stuff happens. It is worth complaining to GM, but they may only cut some slack, it will still cost a ton. You can try an independent shop, and it will be cheaper.
10-16-2019 01:07 PM
DebbieR Hello kind sirs...I have a question. My 2013 Equinox needs a new transfer case and everyone I tell that to says it shouldn't need one at 53K miles. The dealer wants $3,000 to fix it and I'm disabled on a fixed income and barely have $3 to spare. Is this a normal mileage for them to fail or should I fight with GM about it? I bought it used and of course, my warranty expired in December of 18. I still owe about 12k on it...I know I know...there was nothing I could do at the time, I needed a car so please don't judge :-)

Any advice would be much appreciated!
10-06-2019 07:10 PM
afterhoursfab Tech tip: if you look closely you can see I made a couple alignment dowels out of 12mm x 75mm bolts with the heads cut off. This will help align the transfer case and keep the o-ring from getting pinched or cut and causing a fluid leak.

In the 2nd pic you can see one of the exhaust studs is shorter than the other. I had to heat these nuts with a torch to get them off and then the one snapped the stud when it was halfway off. Luckily there are just enough threads left for the nut to hold.

Also 2 of the tiny 5mm x 15mm bolts that hold the heat shield on the transfer case broke off inside the aluminum so I had to replace those with a dab of antiseize for good measure.
10-06-2019 07:05 PM
afterhoursfab Here are all the parts that were removed to access the transfer case for my V6. Not a terrible job but depending on mileage, age, and region you may have problems with the exhaust coming apart.
10-06-2019 07:03 PM
afterhoursfab Here is the new transfer case. Also required is synthetic 75W90 gear oil, new sealing o-ring 19132943, and Dexron VI transmission fluid equal to however much came out previously. I opted to completely drain the trans and then it sat for 2 weeks and the converter drained further so I needed 6 quarts total. If you don't want to change the fluid then you can drain about 1 qt out and it should be low enough that you don't take a bath when the t-case is removed.
10-06-2019 12:15 PM
Originally Posted by regnox1113 View Post
I’ve had to replace the rear output shaft seal on the transfer case twice. Each one lasted around 20k miles. Both were under warranty (had an extended one). They wouldn’t replace the transfer case. We’ll see if the seal goes again. Not sure if it’s any kind of indicator on the durability of this particular transfer case. 54k on the Nox now.
Strange, maybe the rear bearing is a little sloppy? Mine was dry as a bone at the seals..
10-06-2019 12:13 PM
Originally Posted by rednox301 View Post
Bummer, at least you didn't have to waste a lot of time diagnosing the problem.
Those 301 horses were hard on the transfer case.
Haven't seen you on the forum in a while, always liked your posts.
Ya I believe it's similar to other problematic awd trucks with a lot of power like the Trailblazer SS and Silverado SS and it just can't handle the power. Why else would the bearing explode?

I don't get on here much, just too busy. I enjoy writing how-tos tho and I've been an admin on S10Forum for at least 15 years. Back in the day it was very busy, now its dead.
10-06-2019 12:08 PM
Originally Posted by Colt Hero View Post
So what are the price points for fixing something like this - used, junk yard parts, versus new? And you’re going to do the work yourself (I presume), but what would an independent shop charge (never mind the dealer)...?
The dealer wanted $950 for a new one but it is not available due to the current strike. Aftermarket rebuild was $750 with the same 3 year warranty and a weeks wait so I went with that. Labor guide says 4.8hrs so an independent shop around here would charge around $500, dealer probably $6-700.

We live in NJ so AWD isn't a necessity but great to have in the winter. And my wife works on the other side of a small mountain so shes up and down a steep grade every day.
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