Advice for these rust spots? - TerrainForum.net: GMC Terrain Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Advice for these rust spots?

Hi all,

I have a 2013 GMC Terrain that is starting to rust on the rocker panels behind the front wheels. I haven't had the vehicle for long, and I suspect the previous owner lived on some gravel roads or something and these rusty spots are the result of that. I'm going to buy and install the factory splash guards which I think should help keep this spot protected, as well as the bottoms of the doors on the inside.

However I'm not sure what I should do about the rust. I was thinking about sanding the rust off and trying to brush something on there to protect it. I'm not sure if these are worth taking into a shop to have fixed. Has anyone had rust in these spots and repaired it with any success? What steps did you take to stop this from spreading?

I'll probably also go get a quote from a few body shops to see what they'll charge to get it repaired.

Thanks for any advice!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 12:45 PM
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When I bought me 2012 Nox, it had the typical bottom door rusting between the weatherstrip and door. Not that bad. I used a product recommended by a body shop. Called POR-15 Stop Rust Kit. It is a kit containing a Degreaser, metal prep and a black rust preventative and everything else you may need, except for a wire brush. It dries to a gloss black which can be painted or left as is.

You can get it from your local autoparts or Amazon. I applied it last fall to my doors. It survived the winter in the midwest and still holding up well.

Weather Tech has nice mud flaps that will help prevent that. Easy to install.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 02:40 PM
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My policy with this kind of thing is: Don't worry about what it looks like. Just get that metal protected so the rust doesn't end up eating right through the panel!! And don't break the bank doing it - because it's just not worth it. You take it to a body shop and they're gonna try to whack you for $500 or more, then next week it'll be another spot somewhere else.

So I would just start by meticulously sanding it down (using various increasingly fine-grit sandpaper ... maybe 150, then to 300 or more). If the metal is pitted, you'll need to apply a thin film of that red body putty, then sand that down. Once that's smooth as glass to the point where you can't feel any uneveness, wipe off the dust, mask it off, then prime it with a quality primer paint.

Do several *very light* coats (instead of fewer heavier coats), allowing each coat to dry adequately. And keep the spray nozzle moving continuously (moving it before initially pulling the trigger) ... so you don't have any runs or drips. If you DO get runs or drips, you'll have to sand those out (super fine grit) and repaint (just more time). It's a good idea to make some practice coats on a scrap surface to get a feel for the timing and technique of your paint stroke.

Then finish it off with a top coat paint bought with the vehicle's paint code number. Again - do several "very light" coats of paint.

Then, lastly, spray on your clear coat.

Good enough.

And don't spend more than $100 on materials. Clean up and store your leftovers for the next touch-up.

2011 Equinox 1LT (new Jan 2011): Summit White / 3.0 L V6 / FWD / Pioneer Stereo / 18" Wheels / 131.6k miles [14-JUN-2019]

2002 Impala 1LT (new Jun 2002): Summit White / 3.4 L V6 / FWD / Cassette-CD Combo /222.5k miles [13-JUN-2019]
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt Hero View Post
My policy with this kind of thing is: Don't worry about what it looks like. Just get that metal protected so the rust doesn't end up eating right through the panel!! And don't break the bank doing it - because it's just not worth it. You take it to a body shop and they're gonna try to whack you for $500 or more, then next week it'll be another spot somewhere else.

So I would just start by meticulously sanding it down (using various increasingly fine-grit sandpaper ... maybe 150, then to 300 or more). If the metal is pitted, you'll need to apply a thin film of that red body putty, then sand that down. Once that's smooth as glass to the point where you can't feel any uneveness, wipe off the dust, mask it off, then prime it with a quality primer paint.

Do several *very light* coats (instead of fewer heavier coats), allowing each coat to dry adequately. And keep the spray nozzle moving continuously (moving it before initially pulling the trigger) ... so you don't have any runs or drips. If you DO get runs or drips, you'll have to sand those out (super fine grit) and repaint (just more time). It's a good idea to make some practice coats on a scrap surface to get a feel for the timing and technique of your paint stroke.

Then finish it off with a top coat paint bought with the vehicle's paint code number. Again - do several "very light" coats of paint.

Then, lastly, spray on your clear coat.

Good enough.

And don't spend more than $100 on materials. Clean up and store your leftovers for the next touch-up.
Where do you find off the shelf spray cans with specific vehicle paint code numbers? I know GM sells the paint chip pens that come in handy.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 08:22 PM
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Where do you find off the shelf spray cans with specific vehicle paint code numbers? I know GM sells the paint chip pens that come in handy.
At an automotive paint shop. I’ve bought color-coded paint from this paint shop in MA before, and I actually stopped in again on my last home trip to inquire about more paint for my current GM cars. Last time I bought paint from this place it was a quart of paint, a gallon of “Reducer”, and a glass spray bottle with a screw-on can of compressed air to spray it after mixing. This time the (same) owner claimed I wouldn’t need the Reducer or the spray bottle because (she claimed) she mixes the paint and sells it in (oversized??) spray cans ... for $30-$35. And then you buy the clear coat for the same price. It was gonna cost around $80 OTD, but I never saw the can sizes. It seemed like she wanted me to pay up-front and come back later for the paint.

And then it’s probably “Dupli-Color” in a rewrapped can! (LOL!).

I’m gonna stop in again on my next trip to get a better idea of what she’s selling. She’s been in business there for at least 30 years now (selling to body shops, presumably), so it’s probably legit. The only problem is the place is “infested” with smoke!! I think that 5-minute conversation may have cost me 5 years of my life!

2011 Equinox 1LT (new Jan 2011): Summit White / 3.0 L V6 / FWD / Pioneer Stereo / 18" Wheels / 131.6k miles [14-JUN-2019]

2002 Impala 1LT (new Jun 2002): Summit White / 3.4 L V6 / FWD / Cassette-CD Combo /222.5k miles [13-JUN-2019]

Last edited by Colt Hero; 05-25-2019 at 08:28 PM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt Hero View Post
My policy with this kind of thing is: Don't worry about what it looks like. Just get that metal protected so the rust doesn't end up eating right through the panel!! And don't break the bank doing it - because it's just not worth it. You take it to a body shop and they're gonna try to whack you for $500 or more, then next week it'll be another spot somewhere else.

So I would just start by meticulously sanding it down (using various increasingly fine-grit sandpaper ... maybe 150, then to 300 or more). If the metal is pitted, you'll need to apply a thin film of that red body putty, then sand that down. Once that's smooth as glass to the point where you can't feel any uneveness, wipe off the dust, mask it off, then prime it with a quality primer paint.

Do several *very light* coats (instead of fewer heavier coats), allowing each coat to dry adequately. And keep the spray nozzle moving continuously (moving it before initially pulling the trigger) ... so you don't have any runs or drips. If you DO get runs or drips, you'll have to sand those out (super fine grit) and repaint (just more time). It's a good idea to make some practice coats on a scrap surface to get a feel for the timing and technique of your paint stroke.

Then finish it off with a top coat paint bought with the vehicle's paint code number. Again - do several "very light" coats of paint.

Then, lastly, spray on your clear coat.

Good enough.

And don't spend more than $100 on materials. Clean up and store your leftovers for the next touch-up.
Thanks very much! What would you consider to be a quality primer paint? I assume you're not talking about something I can pick up at a parts store (Dupli-color, etc). I'm not super concerned about how it looks because you have to crouch down and really look for this spot. I mostly just want to stop it from getting worse. Neglecting to fix a small rust spot before it got much larger is what killed my old car. For that reason I'll also probably skip the body filler step unless you feel it's really necessary.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 08:45 AM
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Well, I’m probably just going to buy what the auto paint shop sells me for primer - unless she tries to charge me $30 for a can of Rustoleum ... in which case I’ll just buy it at Walmart. I’ve used Rustoleum primer before with good results - even though the body shops would probably snicker at that. You *could* also stop by a body shop, tell them you’re going to be touching up some spots on your car, and ask them what paints they’d recommend and where you could get them locally. Who knows (?) - maybe some sympathetic, bored, body shop assistant would offer to do the work for a reasonable number.

Another idea is your local tech/vocational high school or college. Usually they’ll do the work for just the cost of materials, or a donation. I’ve never taken a car to these places, but I’ve known people who claim that they have - even a $40k BMW, bought brand new (although it was about 10 years old at the time)...

2011 Equinox 1LT (new Jan 2011): Summit White / 3.0 L V6 / FWD / Pioneer Stereo / 18" Wheels / 131.6k miles [14-JUN-2019]

2002 Impala 1LT (new Jun 2002): Summit White / 3.4 L V6 / FWD / Cassette-CD Combo /222.5k miles [13-JUN-2019]
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-08-2019, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Colt Hero View Post
Well, Iím probably just going to buy what the auto paint shop sells me for primer - unless she tries to charge me $30 for a can of Rustoleum ... in which case Iíll just buy it at Walmart. Iíve used Rustoleum primer before with good results - even though the body shops would probably snicker at that. You *could* also stop by a body shop, tell them youíre going to be touching up some spots on your car, and ask them what paints theyíd recommend and where you could get them locally. Who knows (?) - maybe some sympathetic, bored, body shop assistant would offer to do the work for a reasonable number.

Another idea is your local tech/vocational high school or college. Usually theyíll do the work for just the cost of materials, or a donation. Iíve never taken a car to these places, but Iíve known people who claim that they have - even a $40k BMW, bought brand new (although it was about 10 years old at the time)...
Ok, thanks! I found an autobody supply store in my city, so sometime in the near future I think I'll check it out and see if they can mix some primer and paint into something I can spray myself.
Thanks for the advice!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gotdelta? View Post
Ok, thanks! I found an autobody supply store in my city, so sometime in the near future I think I'll check it out and see if they can mix some primer and paint into something I can spray myself.
Thanks for the advice!
I was the dealer today and while checking out there catalogs, found and ad for pre-mixed, original paint, touch-up in cans. Try www.automotivetouchup.com
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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I was the dealer today and while checking out there catalogs, found and ad for pre-mixed, original paint, touch-up in cans. Try www.automotivetouchup.com
I'll check this out too, thank you!
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