I know this has been asked many times before, so I decided to tackle the project. After months of researching wiring diagrams, connector pinouts, sourcing parts, etc, I have successfully upgraded my 2011 Equinox LT from the base radio (option UYE with U2K (XM Satellite) with Pioneer speakers/amp, option UZ8, USB port in center console that runs trough the PDIM, heated seats (option KA1),and OnStar with Bluetooth, option UE1), to the Touch Screen Navigation system, Option UYS (this is NOT the 2012 and up ColorTouch/MyLink version since 2010/2011 did not have that option). Unfortunately, there was alot of trial and error in this process, so I don't have pics of every step of the way, but I have enough detail that most should be able to figure it out. Also, I did not hook up the backup camera to the screen because I wasn't sure of the location of the wiring since my vehicle has it in the rear view mirror. So, I left it there. Feel free to PM me with any questions.
First things first, the parts you will need:
Radio (Silverbox) with 40GB hard drive and option UYS. You MUST CHOOSE ONE WITH OPTION UYS IF YOU GET IT ON EBAY OR ELSEWHERE: Part numbers differ, so you can choose any that show up on LKQ's website: https://www.lkqonline.com/#/2011/Che...ation-opt-UYS/
Screen: Pretty much any color touchscreen that you can find on Ebay by searching for "Equinox Screen," or you can pay more from LKQ: https://www.lkqonline.com/#/2011/Che...h-ID-20896944/
Screen Bracket: GM Part number: 20906479 Here's the one I ordered that shows what it looks like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GPS-NAVIGATI...3D111756467788
Hood to replace your center stack storage console/cubby currently above your screen: GM Part number 20906478
Radio Control Panel (buttons): I had to choose one that had the heated seats option, so choose the correct one (with our without heated seats). Also, the Equinox version has blue lights, and the Terrain has red, so be sure to choose the correct one: https://www.lkqonline.com/#/2011/Che...-seat-opt-KA1/
GPS antennae: You can either order a splitter and connect in to the OnStar antennae like would come factory from GM, or do what I did and just buy a separate antennae(much cheaper): http://www.ebay.com/itm/400293518159...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Well, here's the hard part. There is only 1 cable that you can source online; the rest, you'll have to make yourself. I made all of mine using butt connectors at first, but no matter how hard I tried the connection wasn't good enough, so I ended up soldering the cables and heat-shrinking them. I'm telling you, do this part. No crimp connector on the market makes a good enough connection in my opinion, but that's up to you.
First, let's explain the radio connections/cables itself:
Here's what your current radio looks like (with XM Satellite):
And Here's what the UYS radio looks like:
First, let's describe what each connector does:
X1 This main 44-pin connector houses the power, ground, system enable, GMLAN, speaker outputs, TeleCommunications Interface Module (TCIM), and Personal Data Interface Module (PDIM) link wires.
X2 This connector is a quad-shielded coaxial cable known simply as TWINAX lands here. This goes from the radio to the screen. This is one of the two you can actually buy. GM part number 25818145
X3 This 20-pin connector is for the rear entertainment system only (option UWG) and will not be used.
X4 This 20-pin connector handles screen data, control panel data, voice recognition, certain TCIM functions, and the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) wire.
X7 This is the super-custom USB connector that is neither type A, B, etc. This is GM specific. Ok, maybe you can buy this one as the USB cable runs from this connection all the way to the center console USB port. I couldn't source the part (because I didn't try), so I made my own. I'll explain more on this one later.
X8 This is the analog radio connector, it handles AM and FM signals.
X9 This is the digital radio connector, which handles XM Satellite radio.
X10 This the GPS antenna connector. This is number two of the two you can buy if you decide not to use a splitter. See the GPS antennae part above with a link.
So, how do you source all of these connectors? Well, that's why I used LKQ. I called my local LKQ, told them what radio I needed, and specifically asked that they pull one from a vehicle that hasn't been dismantled yet, so that they could leave each connector, cut off, with about 6 inches of wire left on each. I then used those to create my own cables, without ever tapping into any of the vehicles wires, with the exception of 2 (I'll explain later). This way, if I ever wanted to go back, I could. And, it's dang near impossible to trace each wire in this vehicle's wiring harness to determine where each go.
So, at this point, where do we begin? Let's start with removing the old radio:
This video here is the best I've seen. The only thing you need to do differently is to LEAVE THE AIR VENTS IN PLACE. They do NOT need to be removed.
Now, for the pinouts and locations for each cable. Because my new radio came with all of the connectors, I actually took the wires and pins out of the new X1 connector so that I wouldn't have to source the pins for the cables. I did not use a wiring harness pin removal tool. I wish I would have, but I didn't have one, so I used a needle to lift up on the pin locks and pulled the pins out that way (WHAT A PAIN). So, I now have 44 pinned, 6 inch cables (from the X1 connector from the new radio), ready to be used to make my cables. DO NOT CHANGE ANY PINS OR WIRES OTHER THAN THE ONES I LIST HERE. And since you are making your own cables, wire color does not matter.
1. First cable - The GPS antennae to the X10 connector. This one plugs directly to the X10 port, and I actually taped the GPS antennae down under the new "hood" above the radio and have perfect signal strength.
2. Second cable - The Twinax cable to the screen. This plugs directly into the X2 port on the radio, and to the back of the screen. Easy, right?
3. Third, the X1 connector to the screen. Good news, there are currently 6 pins going from the X1 connector on the back of the radio to the screen. In the new set up, there will be only 1. So this will be a 1 pin cable. Use 1 pin with the 6 inches of cut off wire from pins 1-28 (the connector is labeled) on the X1 connector from new radio, and solder it to about 3 feet of wire, leaving the other end blank. I used 16 gauge twisted electrical wire from Home Depot for all cables. Now, using an inline/crimp splice, splice/crimp this wire into the white wire from Pin 43 from the vehicles X1 connector, and the other end will go to pin 6 from the connector on the back of the vehicle's screen (if there's already a pin there, remove it) There, done, the easiest cable you'll make. If you get everything done and know the radio is on and you have no sound, it's because this wire is not connected properly! The connector on the back of the screen looks like this:
4. Fourth, the VSS wire. This is REQUIRED if you want your GPS to give you turn by turn prompts. Without it, you'll get no re-routing, no turn by turn, yet your GPS will know where you are. For this one, you'll use an inline splice/crimp connector on one end just like cable 3, and a small pin from pins 1-28 in your cut off X1 connector. Solder the pin to about 4 feet of cable on one end. You'll now have to run this from the radio up under your dash, above the pedals/under the steering column, to your vehicle's main wiring harness. Pin 16 in the main harness is a dark green with white striped cable. Use the inline splice and crimp it to one end of your cable, and into the dark green and white striped cable. Here's what that connector looks like (it is underneath the driver side dash, far top left, behind the emergency brake) (the right side of this image is the one you'll see):
5. Fifth is the wire to get the voice recognition to work. Take two small pins from pins 1-28 on your cut off X1 connector, and take 3 feet of wire per cable. You'll solder 1 pin to each cable, leaving one end of each cable with no pins. 1 cable will go from pin 6 on your X4 connector, to pin 6 on your OnStar module 12 pin cable, or Telecommunications Interface Module, and the other will go from pin 16 on your X4 connector, to pin 12 on your OnStar Module 12 pin cable. This one is a bit tricky. First of all, I could not source the pins for the OnStar module connector. So, I jerry rigged it and stripped about 1 inch of each end of each cable, twisted them tightly, pushed them as far as I could into the OnStar 12 pin connector, then applied super-glue to hold them in. So far, it's working, though I know this is NOT the proper way to do it. In any case, you'll have to locate the onstar module, by following the directions here: http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/6is7...ar-module.html
Here's the OnStar connector:
6. Now, let's get your USB working. If you found the part number and ordered the cable, you can run a cable from your center console USB port all the way to the back of the radio. You'll have to remove the driver's side panel from the center console (it just pulls off easily). If you can't find the cable, purchase a 3ft USB mini B extension cable (female on one end; male on the other), cut the male end off, strip it, and solder it to the super custom one off X7 USB connector that you hopefully have cut and left in the radio from LKQ or somewhere else. You can then remove the PDIM from inside the driver's side center console panel (black box near the gear shift linkage held in by 2 clips on the right side)(others on this forum show where it is too), and disconnect the NORMAL USB mini B male cable, and connect that to the female end of your custom cable, and the male super one off custom male end to the X7 port on the radio. Please note, the PDIM also contains cables for the 3.5mm headphone type input jack that's part of the USB input inside the center console. I DID NOT WIRE THIS PORT UP, because I didn't care to as I don't use it. If you want this working, subscribe at alldatadiy.com like I did, study the wiring diagrams, and figure that one out.
7. Now, the cable that will go from the X1 connector on the radio, to the radio control panel/hvac control connector. There will be 5 wires for this. Each one will have a small pin from pins 1-28 of your X1 cut off connector. So create 5 cables, with a small pin on each end (10 pins in all). Remove pins 3,16,2,27,13 from your vehicle's X1 connector, and remove pins 3,1,2,15,4 from your radio control panel connector. Your first cable goes from pin 3 on the X1, to pin 3 on the radio control connector. The next, pin 16 on the X1, to pin 1 on the radio control connector. Next, pin 2 on the X1, to pin 2 on the radio control. Next Pin 27 on the X1, to pin 15 on the radio control. And last, Pin 13, to pin 4 on the radio control. There, done with that one! Here's the HVAC/radio control panel connector:
8. THE LAST CABLE! This one will go from the X4 connector on the radio, to the 8 pin connector on the back of the screen. There will be 4 cables for this. Each one will have a small pin from pins 1-28 of your X1 cut off connector. So create 4 cables, with a small pin on each end (8 pins in all). Remove pins 5,7,4,8 from your vehicle's 8 pin screen connector, and these will go to the X4 connector that you hopefully have sourced and cut off from LKQ or similar. If you have the X4 already pinned with 6 inches or so of wire, you can solder your cables to those without removing any pins from X4. Pin 5 on the 8 pin screen connector will go to pin 10 on the X4. Pin 7 on the screen connector to pin 8 on the X4. Pin 4 on the screen connector to pin 9 on the X4. And lastly, pin 8 on the screen connector, to pin 19 on the X4. Here's a pic of the X4 (note; this is a pic I found from someone on the forum and is not my picture as I didn't take one during the install.)
There, whew! Done with the cables. Now you're done right? Nope! Make sure to hook everything back up (if you don't have XM radio, forget about X9), put the screen bracket on, the new screen, the radio connected, the new center console hood, etc, and ensure the screen comes on, the HVAC controls work, and everything else. What should you get now? OH NO, THE RADIO IS LOCKED WITH A THEFT LOCK ERROR! Yep, your radio will have to be unlocked. I live in DFW in Texas, and called every single GM dealer in the area (there are a lot of them), and not one would help me. So, I contacted user GTPprix on here, from http://whiteautoandmedia.com/
and he programmed it for me, and even unlocked the GPS and DVD features in motion. He was EXTREMELY helpful throughout this process. Please note, this company only works on weekends, so response time may be delayed, but he will get you up and running.
After; shown working and powered on: