Upgrading sub in factory box - TerrainForum.net: GMC Terrain Forum
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post #1 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Upgrading sub in factory box

After having found BandDirector's thread, check it out here, I took this on. Starting a new thread to get this out of JH1973's harness thread. I'll probably add on to this as I go along, but it might be a slow going process.

(I can't seem to get the IMG tags to work in preview, so I'll just paste links to the pics on my server space.)

Before.
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...325_063745.jpg

I used a 4.5" grinder with a thin steel cutoff wheel to cut the factory baffle. There are a ton of reinforcing ribs. I cut around the face and in the inner circle of the sub.
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...330_123321.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...330_124339.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...330_131230.jpg

After I did all the cutting and grinding. I used a cardboard template to see where the speaker frame would end up. I decided to cut the opening a bit lower to try and give more thickness on the edge for the mounting screws. It didn't really matter much, if I was doing it again I would have just left my first cut where it was.
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...330_131811.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...330_131823.jpg

I traced the shape onto some 3/4" MDF I had on hand, cut it with a jigsaw. Then sanded to fit inside the box. The plastic thickness is about 1/8", I did all the sending on a belt/disc sander.
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...330_163919.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...330_174415.jpg

I cut the hole out and test fit the woofer.
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...331_134648.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...401_214228.jpg

To help fill in the huge gaps on the bottom of the baffle I glued in some blocking and thin plywood with CA glue.
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...403_171900.jpg

The one thing I will say, is that if I did this again I would have done all the layout on something like a nice heavy piece of birch plywood or similar stronger wood that would take screws better on the edge. MDF isn't really made for edge gluing and I knew that going in, but I had it here so I used it. There is a bunch of splitting all over the place on the edges, even with predrilling. I'm not sure how a router with flush cut bit would work on plywood, but I have the nice MDF template for now if I change my mind.
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...403_171849.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...403_171833.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...403_171824.jpg

Because of the splitting MDF I may still try to glue it in with gap filling CA. But if I just stick with screws I'm going to use kitty hair bondo to seal and make the baffle edges a bit stronger. If you use something like birch plywood you can probably get away with just using caulk to seal the new baffle in.
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post #2 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 09:23 AM
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That splitting was happening to me as well.MDF doesn't do well with screws.For mounting my subs to the MDF baffle I used hurricane nuts from Parts Express.You may want to do the same,they are awesome.I can post a link here if you want.

Last edited by JH1973; 04-04-2019 at 02:48 PM.
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post #3 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 02:44 PM
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...looks like you’ve got it figured out nicely! Same process I used of course. My Eclipse sub seems to fit a little better, but it doesn’t have the larger plastic trim ring like the JL...
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post #4 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JH1973 View Post
That splitting was happening to me as well.MDF doesn't do well with screws.For mounting my subs to the MDF baffle I used hurricane nuts from Parts Express.You may want to do the same,they are awesome.I can post a link here if you want.
I looked them up, I have brass threaded inserts that I was planning on using for holding the sub down. I knew it was going to happen with the MDF on the edge. But given how the baffle has to attach, I wanted some kind of mechanical attachment on the edge. Other MDF boxes I usually glued every joint and just held it together with staples or clamps. I'm just going to get some nice plywood and recut the baffle this weekend. I'd much rather seal with caulk than have to deal with the kitty hair. It'll cut my finish time considerably without all the extra work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BandDirector View Post
...looks like you’ve got it figured out nicely! Same process I used of course. My Eclipse sub seems to fit a little better, but it doesn’t have the larger plastic trim ring like the JL...
Yes, your guide was referred to several times. I bought the JL (w1v3) based on the low profile and small sealed box specs. Along with the fact I've liked the ones I've used in the past. But it does have a beefy trim ring. The plastic comes out, because I think they make a grill that goes in it's place, but the dimensions are still the same.
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post #5 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 01:04 PM
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Here's what the hurricane nuts look like on the MDF.I'm sure your threaded inserts work the same.I put a few dabs of loc-tite where the nut meets the MDF surface on each one for extra assurance.
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File Type: png Screenshot_20190406-114853_1554570272876.png (1.44 MB, 76 views)
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post #6 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Image links still not working. So I'll post this the same way as above.

Today I cut a new baffle out of birch plywood to replace the MDF, I didn't like the splitting and wanted to try this instead. A bit of sanding to get the right fit. Spaced the screws around the edge in places that wouldn't be effected by the threaded inserts I'm using for the sub. I'm using course thread screws to get a good grab on the wood, so I also countersunk the plastic to flush out the heads. No splitting on the edge this time around.

http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_121631.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_122511.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_123025.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_124603.jpg

I used a trammel to draw my cutout mark for the sub. I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do to plug the hole where the rear sub support used to be. @BandDirector what did you end up doing here? Thinking of trying to cut another plywood plug and gluing it in place with CA or PU.
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_124331.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_130007.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_131520.jpg

I used a transfer punch (right side of the sub in the pic) to mark the locations for the inserts. Such a handy tool to have around. Center punch those locations for a better mark for your drill bit. I used a drill press to assure straight holes. I also used the drill press to install the inserts. I spent the 6 bucks on the tool for the inserts, it was just a handheld T type tool, but in my testing it wasn't the best option. It was easy to go crooked with it. I found the drill press method on youtube, worked like a champ.

http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_141158.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_141329.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_142837.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_144416.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_143846.jpg
http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_165553.jpg

Everything mocked up and ready for sealing.

http://www.ericksaint.com/images/201...406_165951.jpg
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post #7 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JH1973 View Post
Here's what the hurricane nuts look like on the MDF.I'm sure your threaded inserts work the same.I put a few dabs of loc-tite where the nut meets the MDF surface on each one for extra assurance.
This attached pic won't even open for me. Something up with pics on this site. I can see the thumbnail, but just get the spinning wheel when I click on it.
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post #8 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 07:14 PM
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Colt Hero bought one of my boxes and called my solution to plug the hole a “tinker toy” 😂. I cut a round plug out of the same piece of wood I made the sub mounting surface from and siliconed it in place. I made sure it was a tight press in fit, and then just siliconed the fool out of it! It really did look like I stuck a tinker toy in it to plug it up!
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post #9 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 07:18 PM
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Oh, and make sure to trim the OEM grill’s plastic “lip” from behind. It’s going to be close fit behind the stock grill and that lip will ruin your sub quickly if you don’t trim it!
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post #10 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BandDirector View Post
Colt Hero bought one of my boxes and called my solution to plug the hole a “tinker toy” 😂. I cut a round plug out of the same piece of wood I made the sub mounting surface from and siliconed it in place. I made sure it was a tight press in fit, and then just siliconed the fool out of it! It really did look like I stuck a tinker toy in it to plug it up!
Cool, I was just going to trace it on the plug I cut out of the baffle for the sub, and cut it out of there, sand to fit, and PU glue it into place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BandDirector View Post
Oh, and make sure to trim the OEM grill’s plastic “lip” from behind. It’s going to be close fit behind the stock grill and that lip will ruin your sub quickly if you don’t trim it!
I did notice that in your thread. I haven't even gotten as far as taking apart the interior yet. I figured I would cross that bridge when I actually get the amp in hand and power wiring in place. Then I can tear out all the panels at the same time.
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