Upgrading sub in factory box - Page 4 - TerrainForum.net: GMC Terrain Forum
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post #31 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 03:01 PM
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I highly recommend Kollosus by KnuConceptz.It's thicker than Dynamat and half the price.It's also packaged very nicely and great to work with.It was recommended to me by a great installer up in New York(Nick Apicella).The stuff is just a great value and I got mine on Amazon.

One thing to consider in doing the rear hatch....don't overdo it because you'll make the door too heavy for the struts to hold it up.
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post #32 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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I highly recommend Kollosus by KnuConceptz.It's thicker than Dynamat and half the price.It's also packaged very nicely and great to work with.It was recommended to me by a great installer up in New York(Nick Apicella).The stuff is just a great value and I got mine on Amazon.

One thing to consider in doing the rear hatch....don't overdo it because you'll make the door too heavy for the struts to hold it up.
I just found your thread over on DIYMA and was going through it. I'll check that stuff out. I think I'm only running on one good strut back there anyway, lol, so I'll probably be replacing those too during this. I'm likely using a Knu kit for my install wires. Just gotta work on distribution. I was originally thinking of just doing 4ga back to the rear, and the ACM amps have 8ga max inputs. I'm going to be running at least 2 amps, maybe more, if I run active fronts and do the rear doors with coax or something. A lot of the fused 4ga blocks I've seen only have 12 8ga outs. But I guess if I do 0 to the back and adjust from there I'm future proofed. But really not planning on anything giant.

I need to get those things ironed out, because being snowbound in April, led to me buying the sub amp today. My heads in 10 different places with this.
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post #33 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Planning starts. 4" of snow yesterday, mid 50's after work today. So I took off the passenger cargo panel to get a first hand visual. Not sure what I'm going to do with that harness. If I build out to go over it I'm loosing a bunch of space where there isn't much to start with. I might end up wrapping or looming it then somehow mount it to my rack board where the two cross. Sun and temp dropped before I could figure anything else out for today. I not sure if I'm going to use that whole panel or not, still a lot to figure out.



I used carpet/flooring mask as a big template tape to rough trace the shape and area I will have available.



Then I laid out the mask on some cardboard and transferred the rough shapes, oversized a bit, then cut them out. The plan is to eventually mock this up with 1/4" MDF so after the cardboard rough shapes are set I will transfer to the MDF, and then use the MDF as a template to cut out the shapes on PVC sheet. But I want to have everything figured out first, That sheet PVC is like 35 bucks for a 2x4 sheet in 3/4. 10 bucks less for 1/2" thickness.



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post #34 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Completely unrelated, but I'm guessing this has nothing to do with my Terrain. Anybody have any idea what this is? Found it in that bubble pack ziplock bag, in that cavity under the spare tire. Had to be in there when the spare was put in at some point, it couldn't have fallen trough any of the holes in the spare.



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post #35 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:51 PM
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Ok,I'm lost.... what are you doing? Are you creating the amp rack or ??
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post #36 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Ok,I'm lost.... what are you doing? Are you creating the amp rack or ??
On the passenger side yes. Getting all the basic layout done in the newest pics I added. Tucking everything away behind the panels so not to lose the cargo space.

While I have your attention John, you said the factory low level output was pushing over 6v? This has me concerned. Speaker level line in voltage for my amp is 40v, so I'm not too worried about the initial setup. But looking at the specs for the DSP I have my eye on for the completed setup. Looks like max low level voltage is 3.2v. How would I bring that down. Do they have an inline resistor for rca's? I've been out of car c audio for a long time, but don't remember anything as high as 6v out.
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post #37 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 03:56 PM
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You'll be fine at that input sensitivity with your DSP. When you set your DSP gains just be sure your head unit is putting out right around 3v or so.Put a DMM on the signal,play a 100hz sine wave at 0db and turn the volume up until the signal is pumping out your max input voltage (it will probably be around 75%).Set your DSP gains with the volume at that level consistently.Also remember that the signal in these is balanced so a single ended input won't be 6v but more like 3v.If the signal is going into a differential balanced input then it will be a true 6v.
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post #38 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Gotcha, thanks. I've got a small Oscope I was going to use to set all my gains, that's how I set gains in the old days. That will tell me voltage at max settings, and wave form, per channel. This will be my first time running a DSP so I see a bunch of time in the garage coming. LOL. And a lot of time on the intarwebs researching DSP tuning.
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post #39 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 11:06 PM
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Don't hesitate to reach out when tuning.I won't ever go back to passive now that I've tasted active...no way!!

Gains and crossovers are simple enough but EQing each driver and setting time alignment is really why a DSP is supreme and it's also the most difficult part but with research and patience you'll get there.Not sure if you have a mic or not but learning to use Room EQ Wizard with a mic is theee best way to EQ.
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post #40 of 98 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I don't have a mic yet. But I have a couple saved on amazon for a couple weeks now, since I decided the complete system will have DSP. My biggest hurdle, when I get there will be figuring out all the digital stuff. I know there is a completely different gain structure to follow once you put a DSP in the mix. The old school way of setting gains until clip, then backing off, might not be the right way to do it anymore. But I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Still a TON of work to do before I get to that point.
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