2011 Terrain aftermarket audio system...Finished - TerrainForum.net: GMC Terrain Forum
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post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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2011 Terrain aftermarket audio system...Finished

Started the installation on this back in April and completed it a few weeks ago.It's an SLE1 with 4cyl and base 6 speaker system.We kept the stock head unit and bypassed the ANC system naturally with the T-harnesses I build for these vehicles.Ended up using the 2 front low level signals and leaving the rear signals mute.I measured a full range 6.6v unclipped signal output so setting the gains throughout the system was based on pulling only 4v from the HU as my processor's sensitivity range was maxed right at 4v.This gave each output channel a solid 5v's...clean and unclipped,perfect for the amplifiers which max at 5v.

I got a lot of the ideas for this system from Fred Lynch's build a few years back.I really liked the idea of using the spare tire well area for the amps and subs.The amp rack/sub enclosure is a combination wood and fiberglass mold finished in carpet and duratex.False floor was made of 3/4 MDF and carpet that matches the stock carpet almost perfectly.Using this area of the vehicle allowed us to put the kind of power we wanted without sacrificing usable space.

So I'll start by showing the sound deadening photos and work from there.

Last edited by JH1973; 09-09-2018 at 02:21 AM.
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post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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These are the sides of the rear hatch area.I used Kollosus by Knu Konceptz.It was significantly cheaper than Dynamat and quite frankly I think it is better stuff.It's definitely easier to work with and comes in great packaging.

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post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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The spare tire hump was removed and a full layer of deadening applied.Also I ran the 0awg main power wire under the vehicle and up through the large grommet at the rear driver side.



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post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Hatch door at rear was totally deadened as well.Both outer and inner skins were treated as I felt this was important because the subwoofers would be right there.This door is a rattle trap waiting to happen if you don't give it attention.I also used some CCF for the wire clips and wire runs to prevent any rattling from them against the sheet metal.








And the hatch door finished.....

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post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Moving forward I deadened the rear doors even though there will be no sound coming from them.This a fully active 2-way front system with 0 rear fill(not needed).I applied a full layer to each outer skin and alittle bit to the inner skins.Then I replaced the stock watershield on each side.





and door finished.....both sides were done exactly the same.

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post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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The front doors were the most time consuming.I put 2 layers of CLD on the outer skins.After I removed the watershields on each side I sealed the service holes up with sheet metal.I then applied full coverage over the entire inner skin.This created doors that feel like safes,literally, and solid enclosures for the woofers that are being used in the stock locations.




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post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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Front door woofers: SB Acoustics SB17's with poly carbon cones.
Custom made the new baffles out of PVC board so they are completely waterproof.Used a double 3/4 baffle and weatherstripping to marry the baffle to the door card grill.This helps direct most of the sound into the cabin.






And the finished door,again both sides were identical....

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post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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One detail I wanted to show about the door speakers and I actualy changed this later.I cut the speaker terminals off of the stock speakers and soldered them onto the new ones.At first,as the picture shows,I used small sections of wire to do this but later I removed the wires and soldered the terminals directly to the new speaker spades.It turned out much cleaner and nicer than the wires.Also a way better and more solid connection IMO.


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post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 01:49 AM Thread Starter
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Replaced the stock tweeters with Seas Prestige 1' textile dome tweeters.Had to cut the stock tweeter cylinder housing completely out in order to fit these.Used Loctite and hot glue to mount them in place.Worked out just fine....



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post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 09-09-2018, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Finishing off the power wire at battery we used a Tspec fuse holder with compression fittings.This was tricky to figure out but I must say that the connection is very strong once it is installed correctly.Used the housing that sits over the silver module to mount the fuse holder.As far as attaching the lug to the positive battery post I just drilled a hole in the stock terminal and bolted it in nice and snug.Decided on using a 100amp fuse for the main power wire.I had a 150amp but didn't think it necessary.




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