This should apply to the 3.0 also.
Doing my checks- I noticed a very light drop in the coolant level in the reservoir. I know what that means.
So I checked and sure enough I could see the signs of a slow leak.
I had my wife call a dealer. She told them this was for a V6 Equinox.
She tells me $1200, because its in a hard place to get to.
$1200!!! I yell... Tell them this is the V6.. not the 4. She repeated they said because its hard to get to.
I asked her to call a 2nd dealer... well call you back with the estimate.... they never did.
I found a video on youtube with little details. But enough info that I said- Im doing it myself. Have a long weekend in case I run into trouble.
Went out and bought a Gates water pump and belt. Also bought 2 bottles of Dexcool 50/50 premixed coolant.
Total in parts was $113.99.
1st picture shows 1:22. Last picture when cleaning up timestamp 5:22
4 hours.. though I had visitors come by.... chatted a bit.
My 8 yr old also helped. He took parts and cleaned them. I also took the time to clean up the area around the water pump.
If I did this with out the chit chat- and extra cleaning.. - probably 1.5 to 2 hrs.
93,529 miles on engine.
Signs of a leak. under car. (never saw drops in driveway).
Signs of coolant being flung by the pulley
I lifted vehicle and placed 2 jacktands on each side.
Then removed the pass side wheel.
Put down plastic/tarp.
Then removed a small plastic shield in the wheel well area.
I then use my spring clamp tool to loosen the clamp and slide off the lower radiator hose.
(I didnt even bother with the drain valve).
Coolant was clean/clear
I proceeded to disconnect the connectors on the TB and MAF
Removed engine cover. Air filter cover, air tube, and 2 fasteners and the lower part of the air box comes out.
I then loosened 3 bolts on the motor mount piece (I marked them 1, 2, 3) . Just so I could put them back in the same spot.
I then took my jack- and a piece of 2x6 and placed it under the oil pan- and lightly raised the engine. Just enough to take the weight off the motor mount.
I then undid the 2 large nuts on the black mount shown below.
This assembly then lifts up.
Once this is out of the way- there are 2 large bolts holding the aluminum brace to the engine. I also numbered these 1- 2- 3. For my sanity. The brace can then be removed.
Once the brace is out of the way, I loosened the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley-- while the belt was still on.
I then used a ratchet and pipe to move the tensioner to one side to give the belt some slack and remove the serpentine belt.
Note that on the tensioners pulley- you will have to bend/turn the belt to get it between the pulley/engine cover.
Note-- that you may have to test several ratchets... as some have thick heads- and wont fit between the frame and tensioner. I luckily have 3 ratchets and one fit. ( or use a tensioner/belt tool).
I then proceeded to clean up the area.
Then I loosened the water pump bolts.
Place another container under this area. When you remove the water pump more coolant will spill out.
Then proceed to clean what was left of the gasket material.
I used several paper towels to absorb coolant that kept coming out.
Once it stopped- thats when I installed the pump.
I then reinstalled the pump. Using the NEW bolts included with pump.
I believe these are called torque to yield bolts.
There was also a bulletin released. Says to tighten the bolts in a particular sequence- @ 89 IN/lbs.
then go back and repeat. Then go back and turn each bolt an additional 45 degrees.
I also then used a watering can to to wash down the pulleys. Get the coolant off of them. didnt want coolant residue on the pulleys. Cleaned up the area in general.
I then used my air compressor to help blow off and dry the area.
Before the belt came off- I took pictures of the belt routing.
I ended up googling the 3.6 LFW, and found a picture of the belt routing.
then reinstall the parts.
For this- I do not have torque specs on these bolts. I did it by 'feel'-- if you know what I mean.
I raised the engine a bit to get the parts to be very close together and bolt right up.
reattach the air box and the 2 plugs that were removed.
Reconnect the lower rad hose. Reatach the small plastic shield.
I then put wheel back on.
Pour coolant into the reservoir until it stops dropping.
I then removed everything from under car and made sure I didnt leave tools in bay.
In my case- my fans came on HIGH.
I know thats the result of me removing those connectors.
While the engine ran, I connected my scanner and pulled 2 pending codes...
P0113- Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high.
P2228- Barometric Pressure Circuit Low.
I cleared the codes. Restarted car. Fans were now off.
(Note that this also cleared all my Emissions readyness monitors. So if you you have a smog check due... youll have to wait till all tests have taken place).
Youll need an assortment of sockets. 10mm 18 mm. Some extensions too.
Sorry, I didnt write down which I used.
But they were all readily available in my tool set.