CRC intake valve carbon deposit cleaner- in a spray can - Page 3 - TerrainForum.net: GMC Terrain Forum
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 01:52 PM
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There are youtube videos on valve cleaning.
As I recall, it's supposed to be injected into a vacuum line
for most of the can, and then kinda/sorta flood it out at the end
and let it soak for a few minutes. Then run the heck out of it to knock
the loose crud off the valves.

I'm coming due for this as mine seems down on power of late.


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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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CRC, you spray it through the throttle body - past the maf sensor.

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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 09:09 AM
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The nozzle is supposed to go into the intake track after the MAF sensor but before the throttle body. I'm going to try it out later this week.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 04:49 PM
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I've done the cleaning 3 times. My first time was right after the MAF and that was a failure. Most leaked back thru the filter and settled in the bottom. The next 2xs I loosened the screw for the air intake hose and inserted the straw right at the throttle body. This works much better. Make sure you follow the instructions closely and have a helper on the gas pedal for when the rpms drop. I think it recommends 2kish. Don't let it die while you spray. Good luck!
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staras View Post
Where exactly do you spray the CRC on the 2.4l?

Is it directly into the throttle body or is there a vacuum line?
Thanks
There is vacuum port above the throttle body, used for the EVAP system. Others have drilled a hole in the air plenum near the throttle body, and just capped it with a screw until the next service. In addition to the cleaner, Italian Tune-Ups work when used frequently.
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 12:28 PM
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FYI, On Coloradofans dot com website
Under title "Intake valve cleaning results and learn from my mistake", A person called "GDI" says the following.....

NEVER use a solvent based engine running cleaner with ANY GDI engine!!!
On tear down we see the scouring from solvent based cleaners. There is never a case where engine damage will not occur!!

GDI deposits are very hard and abrasive crystalline and a small portion will be loosened with a solvent based engine running cleaning. Those that are broken loose are similar to pouring some sand in your intake as the hard abrasive particles cause scouring and damage.

The smaller ones are forced between the piston and the cylinder walls, and the scouring may be minor, it is still damage and increases with every treatment.

The scouring caused by the smaller particles forced between the piston and cylinder wall is generally not severe enough the first time to notice the increased blow-by, but is cumulative over time as more cleanings are performed

And that does not take the catalytic converter into consideration. The debris and solvent when it hits the red hot catalyst strata causes it to shatter and clog

ONLY a proper manual intake valve cleaning will be safe and not cause damage to the engine. ( like walnut shell blasting)

That ^^^ is what "gdi" says, go read his analysis for yourself, and decide for yourself if you will use a solvent based valve cLeaner on a running engine .
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 01:33 PM
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I do believe that lose carbon deposits can scratch up a cylinder wall. You see it a lot on small 2-stroke engines where carbon build up is very common. What I don't understand is what is so special and hard about direct injection carbon deposits? If the carbon was that hard, that dangerous to loosen up, wouldn't it be ruining the valve seats?

On the Mohs scale, Silica sand has a hardness of 7, and steel (general) of 6.5. It's hard to compare carbon because it ranges from .5 as elemental carbon, to 10 as diamond. Where does carbon deposits from a GDI fall? How about from a traditional intake injection car?
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggsy View Post
What I don't understand is what is so special and hard about direct injection carbon deposits?
There is different about them, the difference is that GDI engines develop more deposits quicker. In other engines, fuel additives help to keep the valves cleaner, so deposits take longer to build up.

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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 12:18 AM
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The higher temperature of the intake valve of a GDI engine, creates "lava rock"


Quoting GDI, he says.... ( in 2016) same Colorado fans forum mentioned above ....
"Seafoam, BG, CRC, X66P, etc. are all basically the same make up. Ford has release bulletins that is will void warranty on any ford GDI engines, but have not seen GM issue the same yet.

These are safe
with carbureted
or port injection engines
as the coking deposits are the "soft carbon"
and very little to loosen and expel.

GDI engines the valves run far hotter
with no fuel touching them any longer to cool and clean them, so when used, these absorb into the deposits causing them to swell and expand and break loose a portion and most is then expelled out the exhaust
where it makes contact with the catalytic converters and clog's and/or causes damage from the cooling shock of this solvent hitting the catalyst honey comb material when it is up to temp.

The real damage though is from the smaller particles forced down between the pistons and cylinder walls as it can be as hard and abrasive as sand. That is never good as the scratches/scouring left allows even greater blow-by and oil consumption.

We also see a high incidence of rod bearings failing shortly afterwards if oil and filter are not immediately changed to remove the solvent and particulate matter forced into the crankcase.

Now on port injection engines, these have been and can be used safely,
but they do not have intake valve coking issues like GDI engines."
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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-04-2019, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydnesb View Post
There is vacuum port above the throttle body, used for the EVAP system. Others have drilled a hole in the air plenum near the throttle body, and just capped it with a screw until the next service. In addition to the cleaner, Italian Tune-Ups work when used frequently.
i don't really do the Italian Tune-up methodology, but I did the drilling a hole and putting a plug in just before the throttle body in the plenum. I am on a CRC cleanup every 10,000 miles regimen. Do it only on a thoroughly warmed up engine for maximum effect.

Not all the cleaners are the same. CRC is Polyetheramine (PEA) based cleaner that was specifically developed for GDI engines. Seafoam I know is not PEA based and was developed before GDI was a thought at GM, Ford, etc. PEA is the main component of the better fuel system cleaners like Chevron Tecron (the first to use PEA and brought it out in 1981), Amsoil P.I., etc. PEA is also part of what makes a fuel "top tier" at the pump.

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Last edited by Copperhead; 07-04-2019 at 09:26 AM.
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